Parasites can be found in almost all groups of plants and animals – aquarium fish are no exception. These organisms are capable of causing a variety of harmful infections which can result in skin lesions or growths, difficulty breathing and …
Tropical fish are potential hosts to a variety of parasites. In this article you’ll learn about common parasite infections that affect tropical fish and get valuable tips for prevention and treatment.
Parasites can be found in almost all groups of plants and animals – aquarium fish are no exception. These organisms are capable of causing a variety of harmful infections which can result in skin lesions or growths, difficulty breathing and eventual death. In order to protect your fish from deadly parasite infections, it is wise to cultivate a basic understanding of parasites and the common diseases to which your fish may become exposed. Once you have learned the basics about these infections, you will be better equipped to identify them and to take action if one of your fish falls ill. Quick action on your part, as the aquarium hobbyist, can mean the difference between a fish successfully recovering because it received prompt treatment and the fish dying because its condition was diagnosed too late.
What Are Parasites?
A parasite is an organism which invades the body of another organism and feeds on it. In many cases, the parasite benefits at the expense of the host body which may decline in health and could even be killed as a result of the infection. Parasites are typically divided into two groups: ectoparasites and endoparasites. Ectoparasites are those parasites which live on the outside of the host body, namely the gills, mouth, fins and skin of aquarium fish. Endoparasites are those which live inside the host body, inhabiting the blood, tissues and/or organs. Parasites can be transmitted through a variety of means depending on the particular parasite. Some are transferred through direct contact while others, in the free-living phase, can be found floating in tank water or inhabiting the substrate. Parasites having a direct life-cycle are transmitted directly but may involve a free-living phase where they can survive in tank water for a limited period of time. Parasites with an indirect life-cycle can only survive in the host body.
Common Parasite Infections
Trichodina – Though there are technically three genera which form the Trichodina complex, all three parasites are referred to using the same name – Trichodina. These parasites typically affect the gills of fish, causing the infected fish to experience respiratory difficulties and erratic behaviors such as piping and flashing. Cutaneous Trichodina infections, those affecting the skin, may cause ulceration or erosion of the fins. As the infection progresses, affected fish may become lethargic and could also lose their appetite and isolate themselves from other fish. Common treatments for this infection include potassium permanganate and salt baths.
Ichthyophthirius multifilis – Perhaps the most common parasite seen in tropical fish, Ichthyophthirius multifilis is more commonly known as Ich or White Spot Disease. This disease is caused by the protozoa Ichtyopthirius which is an ectoparasite, meaning it lives on the outside of the host body. These parasites can grow up to 1mm in length and look like small white spots that appear on the body, fins and gills of infected fishes. Each of these spots is a parasite in cyst form – inside each cyst, the parasite rapidly multiplies and can then be spread to other fish in the tank. Because this disease is highly contagious and resilient, it is often recommended that you treat the entire tank rather than quarantine infected fishes. The most common treatment for this condition is a salt bath to kill the parasite, though chemical treatments such as formalin, malachite green and copper sulfate are also effective.
Ichthyobodo – Also known as Costia, this disease is caused by protozoan parasites. Though it is not one of the most common parasite infections, it is relatively easy to cure. This infection typically presents in the form of cloudy or milky skin as a result of excessive mucus production and it may also cause ulceration and erosion of the fins. Raising the temperature in the infected tank to 83° Fahrenheit may help to kill the parasite but it may not be effective against serious outbreaks. Acriflavine and other medications containing copper are generally more effective, but both of these substances can be harmful to fish in large doses so exercise caution when using either of these treatments.
Hexamita – Once thought to be responsible for lateral line erosion, or hole-in-the-head disease, the Hexamita parasite is poorly understood. These parasites typically infect the gastrointestinal tract of aquarium fish, causing symptoms similar in appearance to those induced by malnutrition. One of the first symptoms likely to occur in infected fish is slimy white feces. As the disease progresses, more severe symptoms including difficulty swimming, weight loss and skin darkening may be observed. The most common treatment for this parasite is a 1% solution of metronidazole in fish food.
Chilodonella – This disease is caused by a protozoan parasite and it can be very difficult to diagnose. The Chilodonella parasite typically enters the tank through infected fish/decorations or through contaminated live food. The most common symptoms of this disease include rapid breathing, excessive mucus secretion, loss of appetite, clamped fins and rubbing against tank objects. When first infected, fish may exhibit no signs of illness – once symptoms are seen, the disease could be in the final stages. Popular treatments for Chilodonella include salt baths as well as commercial medications such as formalin, malachite green and potassium permanganate.
Tips for Treating and Preventing Parasites
When it comes to treating a parasite infestation, you need to first decide whether you want to treat the individual fish or the entire tank. If you catch the parasite early enough that only one of your fish has been infected, removing that fish to a quarantine tank for treatment may be sufficient. Even if only one of your fish seems to be infected, however, treating the entire tank is a wise precaution. Just remember to remove any carbon filter media when treating the tank as carbon will reduce or negate the effectiveness of medications. Before you make this decision it may be helpful to identify the type of parasite involved – some parasites are unable to survive in tank water, so treating the entire tank may not be necessary.
As is true in regards to all types of freshwater fish diseases, parasite infestations are more likely to affect fish which are already stressed due to poor water quality or other factors such as bullying, injury or prior illness. In order to give your fish the best chance possible in fighting off a parasite infection it is wise to perform regular water changes and to install a high quality aquarium filter in your tank to keep the water clean. Feeding a well-balanced diet of live, frozen and freeze-dried foods as well as commercial foods such as flakes and pellets is also important in keeping tropical fish healthy. Fish that are fed a healthy diet tend to be less susceptible to disease and, in the event that they contract a parasite infection, they may be more likely to recover successfully.
The most important, and perhaps the most basic, step you can take in preventing parasite infections among your freshwater tropical fish is to quarantine all new fish before adding them to your aquarium. It can be difficult to tell just by looking at a fish whether it carries parasites or is currently suffering from an infestation, so quarantining the fish is the safest option. New fish should be kept in quarantine for at least two weeks before being added to the main tank. During this period, observe the fish for signs of illness and start a treatment regimen if necessary. If, after the two week period has passed, the fish show no signs of illness – or they have recovered fully from an illness you treated – they can be safely added to the main tank.
Semi-aggressive species like Gouramis, Barbs, Eels, Sharks and Loaches make up the second category of tropical fish. These species tend to grow larger than most community fish and, thus, should be kept in tanks no smaller than 29 gallons in capacity. The species belonging to this category, especially the males, may display aggression toward other fish in the tank and often become territorial. If you choose to keep semi-aggressive fish in your tank, it is wise to balance out the tank with a number of peaceful community fish. When mixing community fish with semi-aggressive species, try to avoid any major size differences or the larger semi-aggressive species may bully your smaller community fish.
The third category of tropical freshwater fish is made up of the large, very aggressive species. Cichlids and Oscars are the main species belonging to this category, though large Plecostomus and other Catfish can also be quite aggressive. Very aggressive fish cannot be mixed with community fish and may not even do well with semi-aggressive species if there is a major size difference between the two. Aggressive species of fish are not recommended for novice aquarists because they often have specific tank requirements that beginners in the hobby are not equipped to provide. Cichlids, for example, require very large tanks and some types of Cichlid cannot be kept in a tank with any other fish.
To prevent situations like this from arising, you must make a choice between maintaining a community tank or limiting the number of fish you have in your tank to avoid problems. If you choose to keep a community tank you can still include a few semi-aggressive fish provided you do not keep more than one male of any species. Keep the adult size of the fish in mind as well because even semi-aggressive fish may eat small community fish.
Even if you only keep community fish in your tank you may occasionally find that one of your fish is causing trouble for the others. It is always a good idea to provide your fish with places to hide in the event that one of the species becomes aggressive or in case your fish simply need a place to rest. Live or plastic aquarium plants are a simple way to provide cover for fish that need to hide for a while.
Guppies
Mollies
Neon Tetras
Danios
Barbs
Plecostomus
Angelfish
The main advantage of purchasing your fish in-store is that you can actually see and observe the fish for yourself before you buy. While this does not guarantee that the fish you bring home will be completely healthy, you will at least have some control over the selection of your fish. When purchasing from an online retailer or breeder you do not have the luxury of choosing the exact fish you want. While this is considered a disadvantage to some aquarium hobbyists, the fish you receive from a breeder may actually be healthier than those you might buy from a pet store. The fish in the pet store may already be stressed from the shipping process, but purchasing from a breeder ensures that the fish are shipped directly to you with no stops in between.
There are several things to look for when buying fish from a pet store. Select fish that are lively and active – they shouldn’t be floating at the surface or lolling about on the bottom of the tank. If possible, visit the store while the fish are being fed to see which fish have a healthy appetite. Look for fish with intact fins, no swelling or redness around the gills and clear eyes. If there are any growths, discolored patches or signs of bloating do not purchase the fish.





