Once you have completed the process of your tank setup, there is one more thing you must do before adding fish. The tank must be cycled before it will be safe for fish. The nitrogen cycle is the process through which

Proper tank setup is the foundation for a successful aquarium. Learn the easy step by step method for properly setting up your new aquarium.

Proper tank setup of your first aquarium is more than just filling a glass tank with water and adding a few fish. Not only do you need to treat the water but you also need to purchase and install the various pieces of equipment necessary to keep your tank running. The process of setting up a fish tank is not complicated but it can be a confusing process if you have never done it before. In order to ensure success, you’ll need to have the aquarium, an aquarium heater, a filter, substrate (either gravel or sand) for the bottom of the tank, a tank hood with light, live or artificial plants, and any decorations such as rocks, caves, etc. ready before beginning. Once you have made all the necessary preparations, setting up your tank for the first time should only take a few hours.

Selecting a Location for Your Tank

Before you can set up your tank you need to decide where you are going to put it. When selecting a location for your tank you need to consider more than just where the tank will look best. Think of a location for your tank setup where it will be visible, but not in a high-traffic area where it could be accidentally bumped or knocked over. You should also plan to install your aquarium somewhere easily accessible so routine maintenance tasks like water changes will not become a hassle. Another consideration when choosing a tank location is sunlight. Do not set up your tank in direct sunlight or you will find yourself fighting a losing battle with excessive algae growth. It’s also not a good idea to place your aquarium by the primary door used to enter and exit your home because the consistent open and slam of the door will stress the fish. Also, if possible, keep the tank location away from heating and air registers to prevent hot and cold air from constantly blowing on the aquarium.

Preparations Before You Begin

When you first bring your tank home from the store it is important that you rinse it well (with clean water only) to remove any dust or other substances that could potentially harm your fish. It is also wise to rinse all tank decorations including artificial plants, rock caves and novelty décor items. Place your substrate in a large plastic bucket and rinse it well with warm water until the water runs clear. If you skip this process, you may find that once you fill your tank the water is cloudy from the dust and dirt in the substrate. All of this dust and dirt will end up inside that brand new filter! You don’t want that, so take the time to clean the substrate thoroughly.

Steps for Setting Up the Tank

1. Set your tank stand or cabinet in the desired location and place your empty fish tank on top of it. Make sure you’ve chosen a stand that’s sturdy and strong enough to hold the weight of the finished aquarium. Remember that water weighs roughly 8 pounds per gallon. Add to that roughly 1 pound of substrate per gallon capacity of the aquarium plus the weight of the aquarium when empty. A simple 10 gallon aquarium can easily weigh over 100 pounds! Increase the size of the aquarium to 25 gallons and now you’re looking at a total weight of over 250 pounds. So, plan this first step correctly!

2. Use clear tape to attach your aquarium background to the back of the tank. Trim away any excess background that hangs over the edges of the tank. Another option is to spray paint the back of the aquarium with black or dark blue paint to give the rear of the aquarium depth.

3. Rinse your gravel or sand substrate very well to remove all dust. Pour the substrate into the tank. Go slowly and use caution to avoid scratching or cracking the bottom of the aquarium.

4. Fill the tank 2/3 full with warm tap water. If possible, connect a hose to the sink so you can fill the tank directly from the tap. If this is not an option you may need to fill buckets and dump them into the tank. To avoid scattering the substrate you can place a flat rock or an upside down bowl in the middle of the tank and pour the water in directly over top of it.

5. If you’ll be using a hang-on-the-back filter, go ahead and mount it to the back of the tank. For canister filters, now is a good time to install the filter media. Do not plug the filter in yet. Attach a submersible aquarium heater to the tank wall using the suction cups provided. A horizontal installation approximately 3 – 4 inches form the top of the substrate is recommended. This will insure a more even water temperature since cold water is more dense and will “fall” to the bottom of the tank. Do not plug the heater in yet.

6. Place your tank decorations inside the tank in the desired arrangement. If you are using live plants, arrange the tallest plants near the back of the tank and the shorter plants near the front. Avoid placing any plants within 2 – 3 inches of the intake valve for your filter and do not rest any decorations up against the heater.

7. Fill the tank the rest of the way with warm tap water. Follow the directions included with your choice of de-chlorinating solution to determine how much to add for your tank volume.

8. Read the instructions included with your filter to determine whether you need to fill the filter with water first or if you can start it dry. Plug in the filter and check to make sure there are no leaks and that everything is running properly. Most aquarium heaters have a built in thermostat, so go ahead and set the heater to the appropriate temperature. It’s a good idea to wait 10 – 15 minutes after the heater has been submerged in the water before plugging it in.

9. Set up your aquarium lighting. This is fairly straightforward. If you have an aquarium hood, with lighting built in, all you will need to do is install the light bulb, set the hood on top of the aquarium and plug it in. If you are using some other type of lighting, follow the set-up instructions included with the kit.

Other Tips for Tank Setup

Once you have completed the process of your tank setup, there is one more thing you must do before adding fish. The tank must be cycled before it will be safe for fish. The nitrogen cycle is the process through which a harmful substance called ammonia is converted into nitrites and then nitrates. This process is controlled by the beneficial bacteria that live in your tank, but it will take time for the population of these bacteria to grow and for the nitrogen cycle to begin. Be patient as this process could take 2 weeks to a month to complete. It’s not uncommon for it to take even longer than that. However, there are several things you can do to jump-start the nitrogen cycle. One of the quickest and easiest ways is by adding live bacteria directly to the tank with a product called Dr. Tim’s One and Only nitrifying bacteria. This product was developed by aquarium industry pioneer Dr. Tim Hovanec.

After your tank has cycled properly, it will be safe to add fish. However, you should not be in a hurry to add all of your fish at once. Adding too many at once could shock your tank with the increased biological load. Add a few fish at a time, giving each group of fish time to adjust to the tank and the tank itself time to adjust to the new biological load. Keep a close watch on your fish as you add them to be sure they are not displaying signs of stress or illness. To make the transition easier for your fish, try adding a stress relief product to your new tank setup such as Dr. Tim’s First Defense.