Even if you are new to the aquarium hobby you have probably heard it said that high water quality is the key to keeping your fish healthy. If you understand the relationship between water quality and fish diseases you will be better equipped with the knowledge necessary to …

In this article you’ll learn how aquarium water quality and fish diseases are directly related and get tips for maintaining good water quality for your fish.

Even if you are new to the aquarium hobby you have probably heard it said that high water quality is the key to keeping your fish healthy. But what exactly is water quality and what does it have to do with preventing your fish from contracting diseases? Learning the answers to these questions is something every aquarium hobbyist should take seriously. If you understand the relationship between water quality and fish diseases you will be better equipped with the knowledge necessary to keep your aquarium clean. A clean aquarium is, after all, the key to healthy aquarium fish.

What is Water Quality?

Water quality is simply a term aquarium hobbyists use to describe the condition of the water in an aquarium. This term encompasses a variety of measurements including pH, water hardness, salinity and chemical content. PH is a measurement of how acidic or alkaline the water in your aquarium is, measured on a scale from 0 to 14 with a value of 7.0 being neutral. The hardness of aquarium water, measured in degrees of general hardness (dGH or °GH), is a measurement of the mineral content of the water. Salinity is, of course, a measurement of the amount of salt in the water. In addition to monitoring the pH, water hardness and salinity of your tank it is also wise to keep an eye on the chemical content. Toxins like ammonia and nitrites may build up in the tank over time and if you do not take steps to remove them, your fish could suffer.

How Water Quality Can Affect Fish

You probably already know that in order to make sure your fish thrive in captivity you must simulate their natural environment as much as possible in your home tank. Recreating the natural habitat of your fish requires more than just mimicking the substrate, lighting and temperature – you must also match the water conditions. Some species of fish, like most Anabantoids, can naturally be found in slightly acidic waters whereas many Cichlids and some species of Tetra prefer a higher pH. If the pH in your tank does not match the requirements of your fish, they could become stressed or die as a result. Stressed fish are much more susceptible to disease than healthy fish – some of the most common fish diseases like Ich are most often brought about by poor water quality. You may also encounter problems with the beneficial bacteria in your tank if the pH drops below 6.0. Beneficial bacteria are extremely important in maintaining the nitrogen cycle and if your tank pH drops too low, these bacteria could die and the tank could recycle, killing your fish. As the tank cycles, the water quality could drop dramatically which could also result in an increased chance of your fish becoming sick.

Water hardness is another important aspect of water quality that can affect fish health. Water hardness is a measure of the mineral content in tank water and the higher that content is, the more difficulty fish may have in maintaining the proper balance of body fluids. In cases like this, fish are likely to become stressed and, as a result, could become more susceptible to diseases such as bacterial, fungal and viral infections. The hardness of the water in your tank could also interfere with any medications you are using to treat fish diseases. Some medications, such as chloramine-T, can become toxic in water that is too soft so be sure to consider the water hardness in your tank when medicating sick fish.

How to Monitor Water Parameters

Fortunately, monitoring the water parameters in your tank is easy – all you need is an aquarium water test kit. You can find these kits online or at your local pet store, typically for under $20. Aquarium water test kits usually come in two forms – one in which you dip test strips into a cup of tank water and another in which you collect samples in small test tubes and add drops of a test solution. Once you have taken the sample, you need only compare the color of the sample to the chart included with the test kit. In order to maintain stable water parameters in your tank it is wise to test the water quality once a week. When you are first setting up your tank, however, it may be a good idea to test more frequently. While your tank is cycling it is wise to keep an eye on the levels of ammonia and nitrites. Once the tests start to pick up nitrate readings it is usually safe to assume that that nitrogen cycle has been established.

Tips for Keeping Water Quality High

The best course of action to take if you hope to keep the water quality in your tank high is to perform regular water changes and to ensure that the tank has adequate filtration. Your aquarium filter should incorporate both mechanical and chemical filtration in order to remove solid as well as dissolved wastes from aquarium water. Performing weekly 10% to 25% water changes will help to keep the water in your tank from becoming too hard as the water evaporates, leaving minerals behind. Water changes will also help to counteract the negative effects of waste build-up in your substrate. While some waste build-up is necessary in order to keep the nitrogen cycle going, excessive waste can put a strain on the beneficial bacteria in your tank and may result in decreased water quality.

Another way to keep your aquarium clean is to engage in tactics that prevent it from becoming dirty in the first place. Introducing algae-eating species of fish into your tank can help to control algae growth which, if allowed to spread freely, could eventually impact water quality. It is also wise to avoid overfeeding your fish in order to prevent the excessive build-up of waste in your aquarium substrate. Only feed your fish as much as they can consume in 3 to 5 minutes and remove uneaten portions of sinking pellets and wafers from the tank after an hour. If you make the effort to keep your tank clean, your fish will be much less likely to become stressed as a result of poor aquarium water quality and they will also be less likely to contract diseases.

The term “water chemistry” is used by aquarium hobbyists to describe the physical and chemical characteristics of the water in an aquarium. Monitoring the chemistry of aquarium water and making changes when necessary is one of the many things you can do to keep your tank healthy and your aquarium fish thriving. Water chemistry is very important in maintaining a healthy aquarium because unless you understand the basics of …

Monitoring the chemistry of aquarium water and making changes when necessary is one of the many things you can do to keep your tank healthy and your aquarium fish thriving.

The term “water chemistry” is used by aquarium hobbyists to describe the physical and chemical characteristics of the water in an aquarium. These characteristics typically include the pH, alkalinity, water hardness and salinity of the water as well as dissolved nutrients and chemicals. Water chemistry is very important in maintaining a healthy aquarium because unless you understand the basics of water chemistry and regularly test the water in your tank, you will be unequipped to keep the water quality in your tank high. If the water quality in your tank declines your fish could become stressed and, as a result, may become more susceptible to disease. Monitoring the water chemistry in your tank and making changes when necessary is one of the many things you can do to keep your tank healthy and your aquarium fish thriving.

How to Test Water Quality

Thankfully, testing the water quality in your aquarium has been made easy by the availability of aquarium water testing strips. You can find these strips, along with entire testing kits, at your local pet store and you can also order them online. Aquarium water testing kits come with a set of instructions as to how to use the enclosed materials. Most test kits are fairly simple to use, however, and follow the same basic principle. Some test kits come with paper strips that you dip into a cup of tank water and then compare the color on the strip to a chart included with the kit. Other kits require you to take individual samples of aquarium water then add a few drops of the test solution. Once the sample changes colors, it can then be compared to the chart included with the kit. It is wise to perform these tests on a weekly basis to prevent any sudden drops or spikes in water chemistry that could negatively affect your fish as well as the water quality in your tank. One company that’s made it fast and easy to test aquarium water is Tetra. Tetra Easy Strips provide 7 tests in one kit. Scientific quality results are ready in 60 seconds or less and there’s no solutions to mix – just dip and read. It can’t get any easier than that!

Components of Water Quality

pH – The pH in your tank is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. PH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14 – a reading of 7.0 is considered neutral while readings above 7.0 are alkaline and below 7.0 are acidic. The proper pH for a freshwater aquarium depends on the particular species of fish being housed in the tank, but for a community tank housing a variety of tropical species, a pH of 7.2 to 7.8 is recommended. The pH in your tank should be tested on a weekly basis because organic materials such as fish waste and uneaten fish food can cause the pH level to change.

Buffering Capacity – This term is used to describe the ability of aquarium water to maintain a stable pH. As acids and bases are added to the aquarium, water that has sufficient buffering capacity should be able to absorb the acids, thus preventing any significant change in pH. Aquarium water can only provide so much buffering, however, so once the buffering capacity has been used up changes in pH can occur quickly if acids or bases are added. The most significant contribution buffering capacity makes to your aquarium is during the nitrogen cycle. During this cycle, nitrates (nitric acid) are produced which, if not for the buffering capacity of your aquarium water, would result in a gradual drop in pH. The buffering capacity of aquarium water is typically described in terms of KH (carbonate hardness or alkalinity) which can be measured in degrees of general hardness, or °dH.

General Hardness (GH) – Different from carbonate hardness (KH), general hardness measures the non-carbonate hardness of water. General hardness (GH) measures the concentration of dissolved ions such as calcium, magnesium and other minerals in aquarium water. When it comes to measuring the hardness of water, the terms “soft” and “hard” are often used. Soft water typically has a measurement between 0° and 3.36°dH, moderately hard water measures between 3.42° and 6.72°dH and hard water measures between 6.78° and 10.08°dH. Water that reads above 10.14°dH is said to be very hard. Frequent water changes are necessary in order to maintain a stable GH.

Salinity – The salinity of aquarium water is a measure of its salt content. The most common way to measure salinity is through the use of a hydrometer or refractometer. Specific gravity is another way to measure the amount of dissolved salts in aquarium water and it has a different scale than salinity. Salinity is measured in parts per thousand (ppt) whereas specific gravity is measured in terms of the ratio of the density of aquarium water to the density of pure water. The specific gravity of pure water is 1.0000g/cm3 – thus, water with any salt content at all will have a specific gravity above 1.0000.

Nutrients and Trace Elements – One of the elements that should be tested for frequently in the home aquarium is ammonia (NH3). This substance is toxic to fish, so its levels need to be closely monitored with regular water tests. Nitrite and Nitrate levels should also be tested. Nitrites can prevent fish from breathing properly and high nitrate levels often indicate a build-up of fish waste and organic compounds which can negatively affect water quality. Electrolytes are molecular substances which are important for regulating hydration, blood pH, disease resistance and muscle function in fish. Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium and Sodium are some of the most important electrolytes which can be tested for.

Tips for Maintaining High Water Quality

The key to keeping your aquarium clean and your fish happy is to maintain high water quality. If the water in your tank is cloudy, dirty or contains high levels of toxins and dissolved waste your fish could become stressed. A stressed fish is more susceptible to disease and can deteriorate quickly if the cause for its stress is not remedied. In order to keep the water quality in your tank high it is essential that you perform regular water changes and monitor water quality with routine water tests. Small water changes between 10% and 20% should be made on a weekly basis and a larger water change, at least 25%, may need to be made once a month. These regular aquarium water changes will help to prevent the build-up of harmful toxins and other wastes that cause a drop in pH and negatively affect the overall quality of water. In turn, your fish will be much more healthy and happy and have a better chance of fighting off disease.

If you have a basic understanding of the principles of water chemistry, and how to alter it, you’ll be better equipped to make changes to your tank when necessary. Quick action on your part can mean the difference between …

In order to keep your aquarium water quality high, and the fish in your tank healthy, it is important to understand basic water chemistry and how to manipulate it if the need arises. In this article, you’ll learn practical tips for maintaining happy, healthy fish.

To keep the water quality in your tank high, and the fish in your tank healthy, you should not only know what water chemistry is, but you should also learn how to manipulate it. It is not enough to understand that pH is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is – you need to know how to alter it if it becomes necessary. While pH is one of the most important aspects of water chemistry, it is not the only one. Elements that are also included are water hardness, buffering capacity, salinity and electrolytes. If you have a basic understanding of the principles of water chemistry, and how to alter it, you’ll be better equipped to make changes to your tank when necessary. Quick action on your part can mean the difference between a drop in pH being quickly remedied or killing all the fish in your tank.

How to Test Water Chemistry

Testing water chemistry is actually very easy – all you need is an aquarium water test kit. These kits can be found at your local pet store or they can be ordered online. Aquarium water test kits come in two varieties – some include test strips which can be dipped into a cup of tank water for testing and some include test tubes to which drops of a test solution are added. Once the water itself has been tested, the color of the test strip or sample can be compared to the chart included with the kit. These kits can measure several aspects of water chemistry, including pH and water hardness, as well as the presence of certain toxins and chemicals like ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. In order to monitor the water chemistry in your tank properly, you should perform water tests on a weekly basis and record the results in a journal to keep track of any changes.

How to Alter Water Chemistry

Raising pH – PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your aquarium is and it is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. Water having a reading of 7.0 is considered neutral while readings below 7.0 are acidic and above 7.0 are alkaline. There are a variety of ways to increase the pH in your tank, but some of the most popular ways are adding baking soda, Epsom salt, or calcium chloride. To raise pH, try dissolving 1 teaspoon of baking soda (NaHCO3) in 10 gallons of water. If you need to increase both the pH and KH (water hardness) in your tank, try using a mixture containing equal parts baking soda, Epsom salt and marine salt (calcium chloride). Use about 1 teaspoon of the mixture per 5 gallons of water. There are also commercial alkaline buffers made specifically for the aquarium hobby that will accomplish this goal.

Lowering pH – Lowering the pH in a freshwater tank can be tricky unless you are also able to buffer the water to the lower pH value. The buffering capacity of aquarium water refers to the ability of tank water to maintain a stable pH. If your tank water has a low buffering capacity while you try lowering the pH, it could result in an unstable pH which could harm or kill your fish. In order to first buffer the water, you must lower the alkalinity by using a source of naturally soft water such as rainwater or melted snow. Once you have lowered the alkalinity in your tank, you can then lower the pH using either peat moss or CO2 injection. Peat moss releases tannins into the water which will increase the acidity and lower the pH but it will also stain the water. Using a CO2 injector can be both tricky and expensive. This method is particularly dangerous because it will lower the pH in your tank without lowering the acidity so as soon as you stop the CO2 injections, the pH will increase rapidly as the CO2 leaves the water. A simpler way is to use a commercial acid buffer manufactured specifically for aquarium use.

Softening Water – To soften aquarium water simply means to lower the alkalinity. Soft water typically measures between 0°dH and 3.36°dH on the general hardness scale. In order to achieve a measurement this low it is best to start with water that is naturally soft. Rainwater, melted snow and water treated through reverse osmosis are all viable sources of soft water. If none of these options is available to you, you may need to purchase a reverse osmosis unit. These units can be very expensive, but if the alternative is to continue buying large quantities of R/O water, it may be the more financially sensible option.

Hardening Water – Increasing water hardness is much easier than decreasing it. On the scale of water hardness, moderately hard water measures between 3.42° and 6.72°dH and hard water measures between 6.78° and 10.08°dH. To harden water, simply add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salt per 10 gallons of water. You may also choose to add some calcium carbonate or marine salt to increase the calcium contribution to water hardness. Another way to increase the hardness of the water in your tank is to utilize calcitic gravel as a substrate – beware when using this technique, however, because it can raise the pH in your tank as well. Calcitic gravel can raise the pH in your tank up to 7.5 and it will also help to increase the buffering capacity of the tank water.

Electrolytes – The amount of sodium, one of the essential electrolytes in a freshwater tank, can be modified by adding one tablespoon of salt per five gallons of tank water. There are also some commercial products available that can be used to balance electrolytes in the home aquarium. These products are often marketed as buffers and may contain essential elements such as calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium and iron. Another popular product is the mineral block which dissolves slowly over time, releasing small amounts of electrolytes of a sustained period of time.

Tips for Monitoring and Maintaining Water Chemistry

While you may be able to find chemical treatments for raising or lowering pH, these treatments are generally not recommended. Adding chemicals to your tank should always be considered a last resort because of the possibility of adverse effects on the fish. Some chemical treatments can also have adverse effects on your tank. PH-lowering chemicals such as sodium biphosphate, for example, can provide nutrition for algae-since phosphate is a “food source” for algae. Thus, using this product in your tank may solve your problems with high pH, but it could be in exchange for a new problem with excess algae growth. If you do decide to use a chemical treatment, look for one that does not contain sodium biphosphate.

Regardless which method you select to alter the water chemistry in your tank, it is very important to test the water before, during and after the treatment. Testing the water before you begin treatment will give you a point of reference in order to gauge any changes that occur. It is also essential that you monitor the water chemistry during treatment to ensure that changes are not made too quickly and that the changes do not end up being too extreme. Extreme or rapid changes in water chemistry can put undue stress on your fish. Species that are not adaptable to sudden changes in water chemistry could be killed. In general, you don’t want to have more than a 2 point change in pH within a 24 hour period. For example, if the desired pH reading is 7.5 and the current reading is 7.0, then you should attempt to get the pH no higher than 7.2 within 24 hours. The operative word here is “attempt” since trying to hit a specific pH target is tricky at best. Depending on the general hardness of the water in your area, a simple 10-20% water change may be enough to accomplish the goal. Once you have completed the treatment, you should test the aquarium water chemistry to ensure that the levels are appropriate and check again within 24 hours to ensure that they have remained stable.