Why Algae Can Outcompete Aquarium Plants
Both plants and algae depend on the same basic resources: light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide. In a healthy tank, plants outcompete algae because they grow faster and absorb nutrients more efficiently. But when something weakens your plants—whether it’s poor lighting, nutrient imbalance, or inadequate CO₂—algae seizes the opportunity.
In short, when aquarium plants aren’t stopping algae, it’s rarely because of the plants themselves—it’s the environment around them.
1. Insufficient Lighting
The Problem
Light is one of the most misunderstood factors in planted aquariums. Too little light starves plants of energy, while too much light without enough plant mass fuels algae explosions. The wrong spectrum can also distort growth—plants may yellow, melt, or stop growing entirely.
When plants are light-starved, excess nutrients remain unused in the water column, providing the perfect environment for algae.
The Fix
- Use a Plant-Specific LED: Choose fixtures like the NICREW SkyLED Plus Aquarium Light for consistent spectrum and intensity that supports photosynthesis while maintaining proper aquarium lighting for algae balance.
- Control Photoperiods: Limit light to 6–8 hours daily using a timer. Avoid long or irregular schedules, which often trigger green-water outbreaks.
- Match Light to Plant Type: Low-light plants such as Java Fern and Anubias thrive under moderate intensity, while carpeting species like Glossostigma require higher light and CO₂ supplementation.
2. Poor Nutrient Balance
The Problem
Plants depend on both macro- and micronutrients. When one is missing, growth stalls. When nutrients are over-supplied, algae blooms. This delicate balance is often disrupted by overfeeding fish or skipping fertilizer doses.
Symptoms of nutrient deficiency in aquarium plants include yellowing leaves, pinholes, and slow or stunted growth—all of which give algae an open door.
The Fix
- Add Quality Fertilizers: Supplements like Seachem Flourish Comprehensive provide the right mix of micronutrients.
- Feed Fish Moderately: Uneaten food decomposes into nitrates and phosphates, two of algae’s favorite fuels.
- Test Regularly: Maintain nitrates between 10–20 ppm and phosphates below 0.5 ppm. Use a reliable test kit like the API Freshwater Master Kit for consistent tracking.
Balanced nutrient management ensures your plants absorb available compounds before algae can.
3. Lack of CO₂
The Problem
Carbon dioxide (CO₂) is the driving force behind plant growth. Without enough, photosynthesis slows down or stops. When plants can’t metabolize nutrients, algae steps in and takes over.
Many aquarists underestimate how critical CO₂ injection for aquarium plants can be—especially in medium- to high-light setups. Even hardy species will struggle if CO₂ levels fluctuate too much.
The Fix
- Use a Reliable CO₂ System: A complete regulator kit, such as the FZONE CO₂ Regulator with Solenoid, maintains steady injection rates and healthy plant growth.
- Try Liquid Carbon Alternatives: For low-tech tanks, Seachem Flourish Excel offers a convenient boost.
- Stabilize Levels: Keep CO₂ consistent—large swings during the day cause plant stress and can trigger algae blooms.
Adding CO₂ not only helps plants thrive but also improves their ability to outcompete algae for nutrients and light.
4. Wrong Plant Choice or Poor Plant Health
The Problem
Not all plants thrive under the same conditions. Placing high-demand species like Cuba Dwarf Baby Tears in low-tech tanks often results in melting or decay—conditions that commonly cause plant-melting algae problems.
Incompatible plant choices cause die-off, nutrient spikes, and wasted effort. Remember, healthy plants are your front line of defense; unhealthy ones become algae fuel.
The Fix
Match Species to Setup:
- Low-Light Tanks: Java Fern, Anubias, and Cryptocoryne wendtii
- Moderate-Light Tanks: Monte Carlo, Vallisneria, Amazon Sword
- High-Tech Tanks: Glossostigma, Cuba Dwarf Baby Tears, Rotala
Research Before Buying: If you want to fix algae problems with live plants, start by understanding each species’ lighting, nutrient, and CO₂ needs so your setup supports steady, healthy growth from the beginning.
5. Plant Decay and Neglect
The Problem
Even hardy species can fail if maintenance is ignored. Dead leaves and debris release nutrients back into the water—essentially feeding algae.
The Fix
- Regular Pruning: Remove melted or yellowing leaves to reduce organic buildup.
- Vacuum During Water Changes: Use a gravel siphon to clear debris before it decomposes.
- Promote Growth: To maintain tank stability, focus on routines that improve plant growth to prevent algae, such as regular trimming, balanced fertilization, and consistent lighting.
6. Inadequate Substrate
The Problem
Root-feeding species like Amazon Swords, Crypts, and carpeting plants require nutrient-rich substrate. Using plain gravel or sand limits growth and weakens root absorption.
The Fix
- Use Enriched Substrates: Options such as Fluval Plant and Shrimp Stratum or Seachem Flourite Black supply essential minerals.
Adding root fertilizers in a planted tank with depleted substrate helps restore essential nutrients and keeps root-feeding plants like Amazon Swords and Crypts growing strong.
Healthy roots equal healthy plants—and less opportunity for algae to take hold.
7. Poor Water Circulation
The Problem
Dead zones in your aquarium allow detritus and waste to collect, feeding algae colonies. Insufficient water flow also deprives plants of CO₂ and nutrients.
The Fix
- Upgrade Filtration: Choose a filter rated for your tank size or slightly above to ensure consistent flow.
- Add Flow Aids: Small powerheads or air stones increase movement and oxygenation, aiding water circulation and algae control across the tank.
Proper flow distributes nutrients evenly, discouraging stagnant zones and algae blooms.
How to Rebalance a Struggling Planted Tank
When live plants aren’t stopping algae, don’t panic—it’s fixable. The key is identifying which of the “big three” (light, nutrients, CO₂) is out of sync.
- Diagnose the Cause: Is your tank overlit? Under-fertilized? Lacking CO₂?
- Make Targeted Adjustments: Fix one variable at a time to avoid overcorrecting.
- Rebuild Plant Mass: Replant with hardy species like Hornwort, Water Sprite, or Monte Carlo to outcompete algae.
Even if you’re frustrated that live plants don’t stop algae immediately, patience and consistency pay off. The goal is balance—not perfection. Over time, plants reclaim dominance, and algae fades.
If you’re still having problems trying to fix aquarium algae even with plants, shift your focus toward long-term stability instead of quick chemical fixes. Consistency—not drastic changes—is what restores balance and keeps algae from coming back.
Common Mistakes Aquarists Make
Understanding the most frequent errors can prevent future algae battles:
- Overestimating plant coverage in new tanks
- Running lights too long without timers
- Ignoring decaying leaves or excess debris
- Skipping CO₂ refills or dosing inconsistently for plants that require CO₂
- Choosing the wrong plant species for tank conditions
These common mistakes with live plants and algae often come down to inconsistency. Once corrected, your plants quickly reestablish control.
Once you’ve corrected these issues, it’s worth revisiting our full breakdown on how live plants naturally control algae to reinforce the big picture and build a thriving, balanced aquarium.”
Key Takeaways
- Live plants fail when environmental conditions favor algae.
- Align lighting, nutrients, CO₂, and substrate to plant requirements.
- Maintain nutrient balance, proper water flow, and consistent CO₂ levels.
- Use enriched substrates and root fertilizers when necessary to strengthen plant roots.
- Regular trimming, pruning, and testing prevent future outbreaks.
- With the right adjustments, even tanks overrun with algae can transform into lush, thriving aquascapes.
Quick FAQ: Why Plants Fail to Prevent Algae
Click or tap a question to reveal the answer.
What’s the fastest fix when plants aren’t controlling algae?
Start by stabilizing the “big three”: reduce the photoperiod to 6–8 hours, test nitrates/phosphates, and ensure CO₂ (or carbon dosing) is consistent. Fix one variable at a time so you don’t overcorrect.
Why does algae explode after I upgrade my aquarium light?
More light increases demand for CO₂ and nutrients. If plant mass, fertilization, or CO₂ doesn’t rise with it, algae uses the extra light first. Shorten the photoperiod and rebalance CO₂/nutrients to match the new intensity.
How do I know if poor circulation is causing algae?
Look for algae concentrated in “dead zones” (behind hardscape, corners, or areas with debris buildup). Improving flow and filtration spreads CO₂/nutrients evenly and prevents detritus from feeding localized algae colonies.
Why do melting plants make algae worse?
Melting and decaying leaves release nutrients into the water and add organic waste that algae thrives on. Remove dying leaves promptly, vacuum debris during water changes, and adjust conditions so the plant can recover.
Cichlids belong to the family Cichlidae in the order Perciformes. These fish are known for the wide range of patterns and colors the various species display. Some species in this family, like the Convict Cichlid, exhibit bold stripes while others, like the Discus Fish, have vibrant colors and striking patterns. Cichlids range in size from less than 3 centimeters to over 1 meter in length but most tend to be medium in size. In addition to displaying a variety of sizes, cichlids come in many different shapes. While most species have laterally compressed bodies – like the angelfish and discus fish – others, like the Julidochromis, have long, cylindrical bodies.
Cichlids are found in bodies of fresh water all around the world. For the convenience of aquarium hobbyists, cichlids are generally divided into three categories based on their origin. The three categories of cichlid are African cichlids, South American cichlids and Central/North American Cichlids. The Central/North American cichlids are more commonly referred to as New World cichlids. Out of the 1,300 species of cichlid that have been identified, only around 120 belong to the New World group. Most of the fishes in this category can be found in Mexico and throughout Central America. There is one species, however, that is native to the United States – the Texas cichlid.
Because cichlids come from such diverse habitats all over the world it is very important that you, as the aquarium hobbyist, design your cichlid tank around the needs of the species you have chosen. Some cichlids, like the angelfish, are relatively easy to care for but others, such as the discus fish, are very sensitive to changes in water quality and can be difficult to maintain. The most important thing you must be aware of if you hope to cultivate a cichlid tank is that cichlids tend to grow much larger than most other freshwater fish and, thus, require very large tanks. Cichlids can also be territorial and aggressive so it is recommended that they be kept singly or in species-specific tanks.
Aqueon is a big name in aquarium supplies and aquarium lighting is one of their specialties. If you are looking for a new aquarium lighting system for your tank, or you are simply shopping for a replacement bulb, Aqueon products are a good place to start. Not only does Aqueon offer a variety of sizes and types of fluorescent bulbs, but many of their products are designed to not just light your aquarium but to improve its appearance and enhance the coloration of your fish.
Before purchasing a piece of equipment for your aquarium, it is always wise to do some research to ensure that you are making the right choice. Reading reviews for particular brands and products is an important part of that research – it can help you choose between two options and may also alert you to potential problems with the product. Aqueon products consistently receive good reviews from customers and many aquarium hobbyists are loyal to this brand. Customers who purchased Aqueon Fluorescent Strip-Lights were pleased with the appearance and quality of the product and enjoyed the attractive illumination these lights provided. Reviews for Aqueon Full Spectrum Daylight bulbs praised the beautiful color balance achieved by the 8000°K light these bulbs produce. Customers also suggested that these bulbs were a great value for their money. People who purchased Aqueon Colormax bulbs were delighted by the natural look these bulbs brought to their tanks, creating a soft glow and bringing out the natural colors of their fish. So the next time you need aquarium lighting, or replacement bulbs for your existing aquarium lighting fixture, consider Aqueon and experience the difference quality lighting makes!
Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR) is simply light that falls within the 400 to 700nm range. This is the type of light that live plants and photosynthetic invertebrates like coral need in order to thrive. Aquarium lights that are actinic UVA and infrared are the most likely to produce light in the PAR range. UVA light falls within the 400 to 550nm range and infrared light falls within the 620 to 720nm range – thus, the best PAR output will occur when a balance of UVA and infrared light is achieved. Daylight bulbs of around 6,500K have been shown to produce the best PAR output. Achieving the right PAR output is important for the health of all tank inhabitants, not just live plants. Studies have shown that fish kept in tanks with full spectrum lighting (which tends to produce a greater PAR output) had better immune function and were more resistant to disease.
Photosynthetically Useful Radiation (PUR) is also referred to as Useful Light Energy and it should be one of the major criteria in your selection of aquarium lighting. Whereas PAR refers to any light between the 400 and 700nm range, PUR spikes at wavelengths between 400-550nm and between 620-740nm. PUR is simply the usable portion of PAR and each photosynthetic organism responds to a different PUR range of light. There is no good way to measure PUR, though spectrographs and other pieces of modern technology can be used to measure the nanometer spectrums of aquarium light. Spectrographs have limited use when applied to PUR because they can only measure the spectrum of light in the air – PUR is affected by the depth of the water in your tank. When it comes to choosing aquarium lighting, you need to know what kind of tank inhabitants you plan to raise in order to select a bulb with the proper PUR rating. For example, if you plan to keep photosynthetic invertebrates in your tank which require light from the blue end of the spectrum (in the 440 to 490nm range), a bulb producing energy that peaks at 490nm would have greater PUR than a bulb producing energy which peaks at 590nm.
Though the number of lumens per watt is a useful calculation, it can sometimes be deceiving depending on the type of lighting to which it applies. LED lights, for example, use focused light energy and thus require fewer lumens to produce the same intensity of light. If you were to compare an LED light fixture rated at 400 lumens, you might be tempted to select another kind of bulb because it has a higher lumen rating. In reality, that LED fixture could actually produce a higher intensity of light despite using as little as half the lumens of other fixtures.
A watt is a measurement of energy, not the amount of light produced by any given light bulb. One watt is equal to approximately one joule of energy per second – therefore, the wattage of a bulb actually measures the amount of energy a light fixture uses, not the amount of light it produces. Lumens, the international unit of luminous flux, are used to measure the total amount of visible light produced by a bulb. The higher the number of lumens a bulb produces, the more intense the light appears to the naked eye. While knowing the number of watts per gallon produced by a light bulb is a useful starting point, knowing the number of lumens per watt is more useful. For example, a 20-watt bulb rated with a total lumen output of 800 lumens would have an output of 40 lumens per watt. A 13-watt bulb with a total lumen output of 950, however, would produce about 73 lumens per watt. In this example, the bulb with the lower wattage would actually be more beneficial for an aquarium.
The spectrum of light produced by a light bulb is measured on the nanometer range. This scale is used to measure the wavelength of the light energy produced by the bulb and these measurements are taken in nanometers. The wavelength of light refers to the ability of that light to travel through aquarium water – red light (in the 620nm to 780nm range) can only penetrate short distances and is thus not recommended for deep tanks. Blue light (in the 440nm to 490nm range) penetrates the deepest and is the most beneficial for photosynthetic organisms because it is closer to natural sunlight. Many standard fluorescent and incandescent bulbs produce light from the yellow and green end of the spectrum – because freshwater plants cannot use this type of light, most of the energy from these bulbs ends up being wasted. LED, metal halide and other full-spectrum lighting systems waste less energy and produce lighting that plants and photosynthetic invertebrates can use more easily.
If you have done any research about maintaining a healthy freshwater tank, you have probably read a great deal about pH and its effect on tank inhabitants. Not only does the pH level of your tank affect the water quality, but it can also have an impact on the health and vitality of your fish. Many novice aquarium hobbyists experience problems with low pH or a sudden drop in pH in their tanks and, when this happens, they are at a loss what to do. If you are experiencing pH problems in your tank, it is wise to first identify the cause of the problem and to make the necessary corrections before taking steps to adjust the pH back to a normal level.
The pH of your aquarium is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline your tank water is and it is measured on a scale from 1 to 14. A pH value of 7.0 is neutral while values below 7.0 are considered acidic and values above 7.0 are considered alkaline. Most species of aquarium fish can tolerate a pH range from 6.5 to 7.5 but certain species like some cichlids are very sensitive to changes in pH and require a certain, stable level. Before you set up your tank for the first time it is wise to test the pH of the tap water you intend to use to fill your tank. The pH of your tap water may vary according to where you live and, depending on the species of fish you plan to keep, you may need to make adjustments to reach the ideal pH level in your tank. Once you have established the proper pH it is a good idea to 
You already know that low pH values (values below 7.0) are considered acidic, so it makes sense that the pH level in your tank will drop following the addition of acids. Extra acid can make its way into your tank through several means — some are naturally occurring and some may be the result of a mistake on your part. Some of the naturally occurring causes of a pH drop include excess carbon dioxide, tannins from driftwood and the nitrification stage of biological filtration. Carbon dioxide (CO2) is the natural product of respiration, so the more fish you have in your tank the higher your CO2 levels are likely to be. The decay of plant matter can also increase the CO2 levels in a tank and many biofilters actually produce carbon dioxide. The best way to counteract high CO2 levels is to 
Another possible cause for a drop in pH is the leaching of tannins from driftwood or leaf litter. Driftwood is often used for décor in the aquarium trade because it provides cover for fish while enhancing the “natural” appearance of the tank. If you do not properly treat your driftwood before adding it to the tank, however, it can cause problems with your water chemistry. Driftwood contains tannins, or tannic acid, a natural compound occurring that stains water yellow or brown – tannins are responsible for creating “blackwater” habitats like the Amazon River. To prevent tannins from affecting your water chemistry, boil the driftwood or soak it for a period of several weeks before adding it to the tank. Boiling and soaking driftwood will help facilitate the release of the tannins, thus decreasing the chance that the driftwood will cause a pH drop in your tank.
Maintaining stable water chemistry is the key to keeping your freshwater aquarium running smoothly and your tank inhabitants healthy. If the water quality in your tank decreases or your tank experiences a sudden change in water chemistry, your fish could become stressed and may even die. One of the most important aspects of water chemistry is pH and there are a variety of factors which may lead to a change or drop in pH. In addition to naturally occurring conditions such as excess carbon dioxide, tannins from driftwood and the nitrification stage of biological filtration, a drop in pH could also be the result of a mistake on your part as an aquarium hobbyist. Overdosing your tank on medications or adding the wrong kind of substrate can have a negative effect on the pH in your aquarium and, if you do not take quick action to remedy the mistake, your fish could suffer.
When it comes to selecting the substrate for your freshwater tank, you have many options to choose from. Standard gravel and aquarium sand are two of the most popular options, but some aquarium hobbyists are tempted to go a different route for the sake of being unique. Certain aquarium substrates like Oil Dri, Turface and Soilmaster have all been known to cause a drop in aquarium pH. If you plan to use any of these substrates in your aquarium, be aware of this possibility and consider mixing it with another substrate to balance it out. Another substance many aquarium hobbyists use as substrate in their tanks is peat moss — it is typically used as a fertilizer for planted tanks and is often covered with a layer of some other substrate to prevent it from staining the water. Like driftwood, peat moss contains tannins or tannic acids that naturally lower the pH of aquarium water. To avoid having problems with a drop in pH, be aware of the potential side effects of whatever type of aquarium substrate you choose. Standard aquarium gravel and sand are unlikely to have an effect on aquarium water chemistry, so if you are looking for a risk-free option one of these substrates may be your best choice.
If your aquarium experiences a sudden drop in pH it is wise to take quick action to remedy the situation before your fish come to any harm. Luckily, there are several simple ways to increase aquarium pH. One of the easiest ways to raise the pH in your tank is to add baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Adding 1ml of baking soda per 10 liters of tank water can raise the pH as high as 8.2, so add the baking soda slowly and monitor the pH as you go so you can stop when it reaches the appropriate level. Another way to increase the pH in your tank is to add equal parts baking soda, Epsom salt and marine salt to the tank at a rate of 1ml per 10 liters of tank water. This mixture will not only raise the pH of your tank but it may also increase the water hardness, so exercise caution when utilizing this method to avoid hardening the water in your tank too much. Though this method is not recommended as a means of temporarily raising pH, the addition of calcitic gravel to your tank can also increase the pH. Not only does calcitic gravel increase aquarium pH, but it also increases the buffering capacity of the water so it is unlikely to drop below 7.5. If the fish in your tank require a neutral or slightly acidic pH, do not use this method to correct a drop in pH because it could raise the pH level too high.
If your fish are suffering from ammonia poisoning as a result of excess ammonia in the tank water, the first thing you should do is treat them for this condition. Begin by testing the ammonia levels in your tank water using an aquarium water test kit – if the test results come back with an ammonia level above 1ppm it is essential that you begin treatment immediately. The quickest way to bring relief to fish suffering from ammonia poisoning is to lower the pH of your tank below 7.0. The toxicity of ammonia increases at a higher pH, so lowering the pH in your tank will help mitigate the damaging effects of the ammonia. Performing a 50% water change along with several additional water changes over a period of several days may also help lower the ammonia level in your tank below 1 ppm.
While lowering the pH in your tank and performing a large water change are two of the quickest ways to reduce ammonia levels, there are a variety of things you should do to keep the ammonia in your tank from getting out of control in the first place. Avoid adding too many new fish to your tank at once because such a sudden addition to the biological load of the tank could shock the system – the colonies of beneficial bacteria in your tank need time to adjust to increased levels of waste production in order to keep ammonia and nitrite levels under control. On a related note, it is unwise to feed your fish too much because this too could result in excess waste production and the accumulation of uneaten fish food. Experienced aquarium hobbyists often recommend feeding freshwater fish small quantities of food twice a day. Only offer your fish as much as they can eat in a 3 to 5 minute period of time and remove uneaten portions of sinking wafers and discs after an hour, before they completely dissolve.
There are two different forms ammonia can take in the home aquarium: free ammonia (NH3) or ammonium ions (NH4). The amount of each of these compounds, as well as their level of toxicity, depends on various environmental factors in your tank. The first way ammonia can enter your aquarium is through your tap water. Most tap water has been treated with either chlorine or chloramine to make it safe for human consumption but, as you may be aware, both of these chemicals are toxic to fish. What you may not know is that chloramine is formed by binding chlorine to ammonium. Thus, using tap water that has been treated with chloramine can increase the ammonia content in your tank. While most water conditioners effectively remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water, the ammonium bound to the chlorine atoms may also be released into the water at this time. To prevent this from causing problems in your tank, look for a water conditioner that treats both chlorine and ammonia.
The final way in which ammonia can enter the tank is through your fish. As your aquarium fish eat and digest protein, their bodies absorb the amino acids that serve as the building blocks of those proteins. These amino acids are then distributed throughout the bodies of your fish as needed where they can be synthesized into a new protein to foster healthy growth. Any excess amino acids are returned to the liver where they are broken down, or they may be rejected into the blood and the ammonia left over from these processes is excreted through the gills. If your fish are given more protein than their bodies can effectively use, it could result in the rejection of a large quantity of amino acids and thus the release of high quantities of ammonia into the tank.
Even if you are a novice aquarium hobbyist, you probably know by now that too much ammonia in the aquarium is bad. What you may not know, however, is exactly what kind of problems excess ammonia can actually cause in the home aquarium. The major problem with excess ammonia is that it leads to a decrease in water quality. Maintaining high water quality in your tank is essential for maintaining the health of your aquarium fish – if the water quality in your tank declines, the health of your fish may decline as well. Another problem caused by excess ammonia is ammonia poisoning. Ammonia is a toxic chemical for aquarium fish and it acts as a tissue irritant, targeting exposed tissue like the gills. Excess ammonia can lead to hemorrhaging in the gills along with a condition called hyperplasia which may reduce the ability of fish to absorb oxygen from tank water. Additionally, the damage to the gills caused by ammonia can inhibit the ability of fish to excrete ammonia from the body, thus leading to internal damage as a result of high ammonia levels in the body. Ammonia poisoning is a very serious condition, one which can be fatal to fish, so it is important to monitor the ammonia levels in your tank and to take steps to control excess ammonia.
For the aquarium hobbyist who has a demanding or inconsistent schedule, automatic timers are a very useful accessory. If you do not want to use a power strip with a built-in automatic timer, you can purchase a separate timer and plug your aquarium lighting system directly into it. Automatic timers make it easy for you to regulate the amount of light your aquarium gets – this is a great way to prevent excess algae growth resulting from too much light. Another accessory you might consider is a water chiller. Water chillers can be used to regulate the temperature in your tank if you are using a high-output lighting system such as metal halides. These lights produce a great deal of heat and, depending on the size of your system, a cooling fan may not be enough to prevent your tank from overheating.
Adequate filtration is of the utmost importance when it comes to maintaining a healthy, thriving aquarium. Filters are not only what keeps the water in your tank flowing, but they also help to remove harmful toxins from the water and keep the oxygen content at a healthy level. Some filters even provide biological filtration, giving beneficial bacteria a place to grow. If you are thinking about buying a new filter for your aquarium, consider a canister filter – these filters are a type of external filtration system that are capable of utilizing a greater quantity of filter media than most other filter types without taking up any space inside the aquarium. If you are looking for a convenient, efficient method of filtration for your aquarium, a canister filter is the right choice.
A canister filter is just what it sounds like – a canister that houses filter media. Canister filters come in a variety of shapes and sizes but they all consist of a solid, canister-like housing filled with filter media and outfitted with a pump. The way a canister filter works is fairly simple – the pump at the top of the filter draws aquarium water up through the intake pipe and into the canister where it is forced through the filter media. Depending on the type of filter media being used in the canister filter, both solid and dissolved wastes may be filtered from the tank water before it is pumped back out of the canister and returned to the aquarium through the return tube. Unlike hang-on filters, canister filters are completely sealed which enables them to create a siphon effect in both the intake and return tubes. This means that the height difference between the canister filter and the aquarium does not matter – the pump should still be able to easily lift the water out of the canister after it has been filtered and return it to the tank, even if the filter is stored in a cabinet below the tank.
One of the main benefits associated with canister filters is that they are able to accommodate a much greater quantity of filter media than many other types of filter. This being the case, you can load your canister filter with multiple types of filter media, if you like, to ensure that certain toxins or chemicals are removed from your tank. In addition to being able to hold a great quantity of filter media, various supplementary filtration devices like carbon dioxide diffusers and water heaters or chillers can also be attached to canister filters. Because canister filters are external, they do not take up any space inside your tank and they can easily be concealed inside an aquarium storage cabinet. This also means that they can be disconnected from the tank for maintenance and cleaning without disturbing your tank occupants. All of these benefits make canister filters a great choice for freshwater tanks, especially larger tanks having a 40-gallon capacity or more.
A hang-on filter is a type of power filter that is perfect for the aquarium hobbyist who desires a filtration system that requires little maintenance. Hang-on filters typically consist of little more than the filter body (the housing), the intake tube and the filter media cartridge. While older models may have a detachable motor, most new models have the motor incorporated so it is not necessary to remove and clean it. Depending on the size of the filter, there may be one or two return spouts that serve as the means of returning filtered water back into the tank. The filter cartridge acts as a medium for mechanical, chemical and biological filtration and some 
In addition to being inexpensive, hang-on filters are also one of the easiest types of standard filter to use. All you need to do to set up your hang-on filter is to assemble the intake tube and filter cartridge, hang the filter on the back of the tank and plug it in. Older models should not be run dry – they should be filled with tank water before plugging them in – but many newer models state on the packaging that this step is not necessary. Not only do hang-on filters perform the function of mechanical filtration, removing solid waste particles from the water, but they also provide chemical and biological filtration. Chemical filtration involves the removal of dissolved wastes and toxins from tank water and it is generally accomplished through the use of filter media like activated carbon. Biological filtration is accomplished through the use of a bio-wheel or through beneficial bacteria forming colonies on the filter media as well as the filter itself. All three of these filtration methods are important in maintaining a healthy, fully functioning freshwater tank.
Fortunately, monitoring the water parameters in your tank is easy – all you need is an 
One of the biggest benefits of UV sterilizers for algae control is that they are very easy to use. Most sterilizers come with easy-to-follow instructions that even novice aquarium hobbyists can follow without confusion. Although a UV sterilizer is an additional piece of equipment to add to your aquarium, it actually works in conjunction with your existing filtration system in order to reduce algae growth. UV sterilizers come in a variety of forms – some can be hung directly on the tank near the filter, while others can be concealed in-line with a canister filter. Because they are available in so many different forms, you can choose the UV sterilizer that best suits your needs and your particular tank set-up. An additional benefit of UV sterilizers is their effectiveness at killing any viruses or pathogens that may be present in the water column. This is particularly useful in situations where the whole tank has become infected.
As is true of any piece of aquarium equipment, it is important to select the right unit for your particular tank size. UV sterilizers come in various wattages ranging from 4 to 130 watts. Read the information on the packaging in order to determine what the recommended tank size is for each sterilizer you are considering. In addition to size, you also need to consider which type of UV sterilizer best suits your needs. If you have a large aquarium or a complex external filtration system, an in-line UV sterilizer which can be installed directly into the filtration unit may be best. Hang-on sterilizers typically utilize smaller bulbs and are thus recommended for smaller tanks. Though you may be tempted to shop by price (a 
Algae are autotrophic organisms – this means that they require light in order to grow and function. Like plants, algae go through the process of photosynthesis in order to produce complex organic compounds such as proteins, fats and carbohydrates. Though algae functions in a way similar to many plants, it does not possess plant-like leaves or roots through which to absorb light. Rather, algae are photoautotrophic organisms which derive energy directly from sunlight (or aquarium lighting). This is why aquariums that receive a great deal of direct sunlight are likely to experience problems with algae growth – the more lighting the tank receives, the better an environment it becomes for algae. In order to prevent excessive algae growth in your tank, position your aquarium somewhere it will not be exposed to sunlight. You should also only keep the lights on in your tank for a maximum of 12 hours. Most aquariums can get by on as little as 8 hours of light but planted tanks generally require between 10 and 12 hours of light in order to facilitate healthy plant growth.
The two nutrients that are most often correlated with algae growth are nitrogen and phosphorus. In addition to these nutrients, however, algae growth can also be affected by carbon and silica. The amount of organic waste and debris in your tank is directly related to the amount of nutrients available to algae. If you overfeed your fish they will not only produce larger quantities of waste, but some of the fish food may accumulate in the substrate of your tank where it will begin to break down. Decaying plant matter and dead fish can also result in an increase in nitrogen and phosphorus in your tank. Installing a quality filtration system in your tank can help to control both solid and dissolved wastes which may help to keep 
It has already been discussed that algae are photoautotrophic organisms which, like plants, gather energy from sunlight. Another similarity between algae and plants is that algae converts carbon dioxide into organic materials that other organisms can use for biological functions such as cell respiration. One of the products of this process is oxygen, though algae does not produce oxygen in the same quantity as plants. In some areas, tap water may contain a high CO2 content which could cause fluctuations in CO2 levels, and thus algae growth. Other factors such as the use of a CO2 injector may lead to higher levels of CO2 in your aquarium.
It is natural and healthy to have some level of algae growth in your aquarium because it can be a good supplemental food source for your fish. Herbivorous species of fish may especially benefit from algae growth in the tank because these fish tend to be grazers – they are likely to feed on algae growths continuously throughout the day. While it is a good idea to limit the amount of lighting and nutrients available in order to prevent 
When you look at a well-maintained freshwater aquarium, one of the first things you are likely to notice is the way the aquarium lighting reflects off the scales of the fish as they swim and how it illuminates the live plants and other tank decorations. The lighting in an aquarium can mean the difference between a tank looking dull and drab or looking vibrant and healthy. Aquarium lighting serves to do more than just enhance the appearance of your tank, however – it also serves an important biological function. If you want to cultivate a beautiful and healthy freshwater aquarium you need to carefully consider the type of lighting you are going to use. Before you can make this decision, however, you should understand the importance of 
When it comes to the functional purposes of aquarium lighting, the most important thing to mention is that lighting is necessary to sustain numerous biological processes within the aquarium. Aquarium lighting provides the energy photosynthetic organisms need to thrive and grow. In the freshwater tank, these organisms may include plants and algae which utilize light as an energy source in the process of converting carbon dioxide into oxygen through photosynthesis. In order to thrive, plants require lighting of a certain intensity and spectrum. While tanks housing only fish may get by on as little as one or two watts of lighting per gallon, planted tanks need between 2 and 5 watts per gallon. Aquarium plants should receive between 10 and 12 hours of light per day and full-spectrum lighting is recommended.
LED
Cleaning your freshwater aquarium does not need to be a daunting, time-consuming task. In fact, most of the maintenance tasks required to keep the water quality in a freshwater aquarium high will take only a few minutes of your time. Cleaning the substrate in your tank, for example, is a task made easy through the use of a gravel vacuum. Thanks to this tool, cleaning tank substrate can be combined with routine water changes and, depending on the size of your tank, generally takes only 15 or 30 minutes to complete. Because cleaning the substrate in a freshwater tank is so easy, there is no reason for you to avoid doing it. If you do not clean your tank substrate on a regular basis the water quality in your tank may decline as a result of excessive waste build-up. Poor water quality leads to stress in fish, which can then lead to a greater susceptibility to disease. In order to keep your tank clean and to protect the health of your fish, clean the substrate in your tank on a regular basis.
When it comes to selecting the substrate for your tank there are a variety of factors you need to consider. Not only should you think about which substrate you prefer, but you also need to consider your fish. The native environment of your fish may have a particular type of substrate, such as sand or gravel, so it is wise to perform a bit of basic research to find out before you decorate your tank. Before choosing a substrate, you should also consider which types are the easiest to maintain. If you do not mind putting in a little extra effort to clean the specialized substrates recommended for a planted tank, feel free to select something like fluorite or Eco-Complete. Since I incorporate live plants in my tanks, 
Gravel vacuums are the tool of choice among many aquarium hobbyists when it comes to cleaning the substrate in your tank. These tools are available in a variety of sizes and some models even come with attachments designed to reach into corners and underneath tank decorations. Select a gravel vacuum that is proportional to the size of your aquarium and to the amount of open space in your tank. If your tank is densely planted or heavily decorated, for example, you may need a gravel vacuum with a narrow mouth to avoid disturbing plants and decorations while cleaning the substrate. If you have a great deal of open space in your tank, however, a vacuum with a wide mouth will save time by allowing you to clean large areas of the tank at once.
Some gravel vacuums will connect directly to the faucet of your sink. The siphon-effect is created by simply turning on the water. While running water to create a siphon does waste a certain amount of water, many aquarium hobbyists prefer this method because of the convenience. Another method that offers some convenience is the fully-submersible battery operated vacuum by Eheim. While no water is actually removed from the tank, it does a good job of cleaning the substrate and has the added convenience of allowing a quick “spot clean” to remove the occasional uneaten wafer and small plant debris at the bottom of the tank. I really like the 
While using a gravel vacuum, pay extra attention to caves and other places where your fish like to hide because these places are likely to accumulate the most waste. If you have live plants in your tank, be careful not to disturb the roots while using your gravel vacuum. It is wise to leave a two-inch radius around the stems of live plants – live plants garner nutrients from organic waste so it is a good idea to leave something for the plants to feed on. If you have chosen fine-grained sand as the substrate in your tank do not drive the head of the vacuum into the sand – rather, move the vacuum gently above the surface of the sand to collect any accumulated waste.
Most of the aquarium maintenance tasks you should perform on a daily basis involve observation. Check all the fish in your tank for signs of stress and illness – check to be sure they are eating properly and exhibiting normal behaviors. Such a simple task is easy to overlook but keeping a close eye on your fish can make a big difference when it comes to spotting, diagnosing and treating fish diseases. The more quickly you are able to identify the symptoms of a disease and take action to quarantine the sick fish, the less likely it is that the disease will spread to other fish in your tank. If you catch the disease early, your sick fish is also much more likely to recover.
When it comes to weekly 
Because your fish may not get all the nutrients they need from a staple diet of commercial fish food, it is recommended that you occasionally 
There are a number of rumors floating around in the aquarium hobby about the ability of garlic to treat a variety of fish diseases in both freshwater and saltwater fish. Few scientific studies have been conducted, however, and many experienced hobbyists agree that while giving fish garlic may help to treat some diseases and to promote recovery from certain conditions, garlic does not actually cure disease. In a study conducted by renowned Discus fish breeder Jack Wattley, D
Because most commercial foods on the market do not provide complete nutrition for 
When you first start out in the freshwater aquarium hobby, you may not realize that your selection of tank inhabitants can include freshwater aquarium invertebrates and don’t need to only be limited to fish. A variety of freshwater invertebrates are also available and these creatures can perform several helpful functions in your tank. Invertebrates like snails, shrimp, crayfish and crabs are scavengers that can help rid your tank of built-up fish food and other waste products, thus making your tank a healthier environment for your fish. If are looking for a simple way to keep your tank clean, consider adding a freshwater invertebrate to your tank.
The main benefit of keeping invertebrates in your tank is that they will help to control the build-up of detritus in your aquarium. Detritus is a term that refers to organic waste and uneaten fish food that builds up in your aquarium substrate, affecting the water quality in your tank. Invertebrates are often referred by aquarium hobbyists as a sort of “cleanup crew” because they naturally feed on these materials, thus safely removing them from your tank. Another benefit of freshwater invertebrates is that many of them are quite colorful and can add to the overall appearance of your tank. Some lobsters, for example, come in bright blue colors and some aquarium snails have shells that form in unique shapes.
Snails
Lobsters
Shrimp
Crabs
Clams
In order to ensure that your fish receive the nutrients their staple diet may be lacking, you should also formulate a supplemental diet. This diet should include a variety of live, frozen and freeze-dried foods such as bloodworms, white worms, brine shrimp, daphnia and whatever else you can find at your local pet store. In addition to the supplemental diet, you should also provide your fish with vitamin and mineral supplements once in a while to maintain their health. Many supplements come in liquid form which makes them easy to administer, though some supplements come in dissolving block form as well.
Commercial fish foods are widely available in a variety of forms including flakes, pellets, granules and wafers. Not only are these foods easy to come by, but they also tend to be fairly cheap. When selecting a commercial food for the staple diet of your fish, don’t simply pick the cheapest option – look for a reputable brand name and a type of food that has been specially formulated for the particular type of fish you have in your tank. Commercial foods are often formulated for certain types of fish such as tropical fish, marine fish and Cichlids. Your fish may also benefit from a vitamin-enhanced or mineral-enhanced commercial food. These foods are particularly helpful in maintaining healthy coloration in tropical aquarium fish.
Because there are a number of hazards associated with overfeeding your fish, it is wise to establish a feeding routine. If you plan to feed your fish at certain times throughout the day you will be unlikely to forget whether you have already fed them and end up giving them too much food. Most aquarium hobbyists recommend feeding freshwater aquarium fish small amounts of food twice a day. Only offer your fish as much as they can consume in 3 to 5 minutes and remove any uneaten portions of sinking pellets and wafers after an hour, before they completely dissolve. By following these guidelines you can avoid issues with water quality which may arise due to an excess of uneaten fish food building up along the bottom of your tank.
Even novice aquarium hobbyists are likely to make the connection between a clean tank and healthy fish. Water quality is directly related to the health of aquarium fish, but many hobbyists do not realize that there is also a connection between nutrition and fish diseases. While a poor diet may not directly cause your fish to become ill, it could weaken them and increase their susceptibility to disease. In order to ensure that your aquarium fish stay happy and healthy, it is wise to cultivate an understanding of how nutrition relates to fish diseases. Once you understand this connection, you’ll be better equipped to provide your fish with the type of balanced diet they need in order to maintain their health.
Though it is possible for commercial foods to become contaminated, live foods are more likely to carry fish diseases into the aquarium. Live foods such as tubifex worms and bloodworms that have been gathered from contaminated waters may introduce harmful bacteria or viruses into your home aquarium. Buying your live foods from a reputable source can help reduce the risk of contaminants, but it is not a guarantee. Many aquarium hobbyists choose to cultivate their own stores of live food in order to avoid problems with contamination. Not only is this option a great way to protect your fish from disease, but it can also save you a noticable amount of money.
Different species of fish have different nutritional needs. For example, a carnivorous species of fish will require a high percentage of protein in its daily diet in order to thrive, whereas the diet of an herbivorous species should consist mainly of plant matter. If you do not understand the nutritional needs of your fish you may end up feeding them the wrong food – which could bring about a nutritional disease or deficiency. Nutritional diseases and deficiencies are most likely to occur in fish that are fed a staple diet of commercial foods. Processed flakes, pellets and granules do contain essential nutrients, but not enough to keep your fish thriving.
If you plan to raise your fish on a diet of commercial foods, supplement these foods by occasionally offering live, frozen or freeze-dried foods depending on the type of fish you have. For carnivores, live foods such as bloodworms, white worms and brine shrimp are excellent sources of nutrients, especially protein. These foods and others are also typically available in frozen and freeze-dried form – for the best results, offer your fish a mixture of foods and food types. Herbivorous species of fish should be given spirulina wafers and plenty of fresh vegetables in order to ensure that they receive adequate nutrition. All species of fish can benefit from vitamin and mineral supplements. Vitamin deficiencies can lead to nutritional 
Species of Carnivorous Fish
• Discus Fish
• Piranha
In addition to these dietary basics, carnivores also need vitamins and minerals in their diets. Vitamins and minerals are essential for the growth of healthy bone, scales and tissue. Vitamin C, in particular, is instrumental in bone development along with healing and digestion. Vitamins B2 and B6 deal with enzymes and Vitamin B1 helps to breakdown carbohydrates and promotes healthy growth and fertility. Calcium and phosphorous are the two most important minerals for aquarium fish – these minerals are necessary for maintaining healthy scales, bones and teeth. While some vitamins and minerals may be ingested naturally through the foods you give your carnivorous species of fish, it is often necessary to provide supplements or to “gut load” live foods to ensure that fish get the vitamins and minerals they need.
Fish
Fish Meal
Shrimp
Beef Heart
It’s not uncommon for novice aquarium hobbyists to turn on the lights in their new aquarium to discover that aquarium algae has turned the water in their tank green. Green water is often a result of excess algae growth and it is commonly a sign that the tank has not been cycled properly. This is just one type of aquarium algae, however, and algae growth is not limited to new tanks. Throughout your life as an aquarium hobbyist you are likely to encounter a variety of different types of algae in your tank. Each type of algae looks slightly different and its growth may be brought about by different factors. The one thing most types of algae have in common is that their growth often points toward a problem with water quality. If your tank suffers from excess algae growth it would be wise to determine what kind of algae it is and to check your water parameters to see what caused the growth rate to increase.
In addition to keeping your aquarium clean and avoiding excess light, introducing an algae eater to your tank is another simple way to control 
Gravel
Sand
Flourite
Using a nutrient-rich substrate in your aquarium is essential if you want to successfully maintain a planted tank. Because there are so many different options for aquarium substrate it is possible to choose one that best suits your needs as well as your particular tank. You may shop for aquarium substrate by price, ease of use, or quality and if you cannot decide on just one type, you can mix two or more different types together. Keep in mind that the more effort you put into cultivating a healthy 
Fin Rot
Because bacterial infections are common in tanks affected by poor water quality, the key to preventing these infections is to keep your tank clean. Avoid overfeeding your fish in order to prevent excessive waste build-up and ensure that your tank is outfitted with an adequate filtration system to help remove solid as well as dissolved wastes from the tank. Regular water changes are another essential part of keeping your aquarium clean. Unless you change 10% to 25% of the water in your tank on a weekly basis, toxins and waste could build up in your tank water and bring down the water quality. Not only does poor water quality provide an ideal environment for bacteria to grow but it may also put stress on your fish, thus making them more susceptible to disease.
A parasite is an organism which invades the body of another organism and feeds on it. In many cases, the parasite benefits at the expense of the host body which may decline in health and could even be killed as a result of the infection. Parasites are typically divided into two groups: ectoparasites and endoparasites. Ectoparasites are those parasites which live on the outside of the host body, namely the gills, mouth, fins and skin of aquarium fish. Endoparasites are those which live inside the host body, inhabiting the blood, tissues and/or organs. Parasites can be transmitted through a variety of means depending on the particular parasite. Some are transferred through direct contact while others, in the free-living phase, can be found floating in tank water or inhabiting the substrate. Parasites having a direct life-cycle are transmitted directly but may involve a free-living phase where they can survive in tank water for a limited period of time. Parasites with an indirect life-cycle can only survive in the host body.
When it comes to treating a parasite infestation, you need to first decide whether you want to treat the individual fish or the entire tank. If you catch the parasite early enough that only one of your fish has been infected, removing that fish to a quarantine tank for treatment may be sufficient. Even if only one of your fish seems to be infected, however, treating the entire tank is a wise precaution. Just remember to remove any carbon filter media when treating the tank as carbon will reduce or negate the effectiveness of medications. Before you make this decision it may be helpful to identify the type of parasite involved – some parasites are unable to survive in tank water, so treating the entire tank may not be necessary.
Like all living things, aquarium fish have specific nutritional needs that must be met if they are to thrive. While there may not be a food pyramid to refer to when it comes to examining the diet of your aquarium fish, there are a few main categories of nutrition that you should be aware of. All aquarium fish need protein, lipids (fats), carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals but the recommended amount from each category may depend on the type of fish. Carnivorous fish, for example, may require more protein than an omnivorous species of fish, while herbivorous fish need a diet consisting mainly of vegetables.
Keep in mind that different types of 
An undergravel filter generally consists of a plastic filter plate which is placed on the bottom of the tank before the gravel or other substrate is added. This slotted filter plate is attached to one or more intake tubes which pull aquarium water down through the filter plate. This process is generally driven by air displacement – air stones are inserted into the base of the intake tubes and, as the air bubbles force water out of the tubes, negative pressure is created under the filter plate. In response to the negative pressure, aquarium water filters down through the gravel and into the intake tubes. Alternatively, a powerhead can be attached to the intake tubes of an undergravel filter in order to provide more powerful suction and increased circulation.
In order to give your 
When you first set up your planted tank it is wise to begin with as many plants as possible. To make this easier, select inexpensive fast-growing species like Hygrophila, Cabomba, Hornwort and Vallisneria. Prune all of your plants before adding them to the tank – trim away any yellow or damaged leaves and remove any soft brown roots. For rooted plants in particular it is wise to trim white roots to about 5 cm in length to prevent rotting.
Thankfully, testing the water quality in your aquarium has been made easy by the availability of 
Buffering Capacity
Salinity
To keep the water quality in your tank high, and the fish in your tank healthy, you should not only know what water chemistry is, but you should also learn how to manipulate it. It is not enough to understand that pH is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is – you need to know how to alter it if it becomes necessary. While pH is one of the most important aspects of water chemistry, it is not the only one. Elements that are also included are water hardness, buffering capacity, salinity and electrolytes. If you have a basic understanding of the principles of water chemistry, and how to alter it, you’ll be better equipped to make changes to your tank when necessary. Quick action on your part can mean the difference between a drop in pH being quickly remedied or killing all the fish in your tank.
Softening Water
Egg Fungus
Bacterial
Viral
Parasite
It should go without saying that healthy fish are less susceptible to disease than fish that are stressed, injured or in less than peak condition. One of the best ways to ensure that your fish stay healthy is to feed them a varied diet of live, frozen, freeze-dried and flake foods. Like all living things, aquarium fish require certain nutrients to thrive and if they do not receive those nutrients through their diet they are likely to suffer from malnutrition. Malnourished fish are much more susceptible to 
When first infected, fish carrying the Pleistophora hyphessobryconis parasite may exhibit no symptoms at all. As the parasite spreads throughout the body, the host fish may become less social, prone to hiding rather than moving with the school. Infected fish may also lose their appetite and, due to a combination of poor nutrition and the progression of the disease, they may also lose their coloration or develop white patches on their flanks. In the final stages of the disease, infected fish may develop swellings or contortions accompanied by difficulty swimming. These symptoms are often visible indications of internal damage to the musculature of the host fish.
This disease is notoriously difficult to treat, largely because it is so tricky to diagnose. Once the diagnosis has been confirmed, the disease has likely progressed past the point of possible recovery. If the affected fish are still exhibiting mostly normal feeding behavior and movements, an antibiotic treatment may help. In most cases, however, there are no effective treatments for Neon Tetra Disease. Most aquarium hobbyists take one of two actions when they suspect an outbreak of Neon Tetra Disease – they either euthanize the affected fish immediately to prevent the spread of the disease or they move the affected fish to a quarantine tank until the diagnosis can be confirmed. If a fish infected with Neon Tetra Disease is allowed to remain in the main tank, it is only a matter of time before the disease spreads to the rest of the school and perhaps to other fish in the tank as well.
Ferns and Mosses
Rosettes
Stem Plants
Floating Plants
As you wander through the aquarium aisle at your local pet store you may be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of choices in flake foods alone. In addition to flake foods, there are also pellets, granules and wafers, not to mention frozen and freeze-dried foods. If you want to give your fish the best diet you can possibly give them, however, you need to move away from the processed foods and stick to live foods. Live 
White Worms
Processed
Frozen
Metal Halide
Controlling algae growth in the freshwater aquarium is a task many novice hobbyists struggle with. Before you find the correct balance in water parameters and before the beneficial bacteria in your tank have time to establish themselves, you may find algae growing on your tank walls and decorations. In small quantities, algae is not a problem but if it is allowed to grow out of control it can take over the tank. In some cases, a quick burst in algae growth (often referred to as an algae bloom) is a sign of poor water quality. If you are simply looking for a way to control regular algae growth, however, the solution can be as simple as adding an algae eater to your tank.
Plecostomus
Chinese Algae Eater
Siamese Algae Eater 
Otocinclus Catfish
Nothing is quite as lovely as a tank full of vibrant and healthy aquarium plants. In the home aquarium, live plants provide numerous benefits in addition to increasing the aesthetic appeal of your tank. Live plants provide natural hiding places for fish while helping to conceal in-tank equipment like submersible heaters and filter intake tubes. Because live plants are such a valuable asset in the home aquarium you should do everything you can to make sure your plants stay healthy. In addition to providing adequate lighting and nutrition, you also need to ensure that the fish with which you are stocking your tank will not uproot, damage or consume your plants.
While many species of fish may occasionally nibble on aquarium plants, few species will actually eat them. In most cases, your fish are picking off bits of algae or sunken fish food from among the leaves of your plants – they are not eating the plants themselves. Some species of fish, however, are notorious for having a tendency to devour live plants. Chief among these plant-eating species are Silver Dollar fish. These fish have been known to decimate entire planted tanks in a matter of days. Other species like Gouramis and Cichlids have been known to uproot plants while digging through aquarium substrate. Algae eaters like Plecostomus, and bottom feeders such as Loaches, have a tendency to chew holes in live plants as well.
A sponge filter typically consists of little more than an air pump attached to an intake tube surrounded by a sponge. As water is sucked up through the intake tube, solid waste particles are trapped in the pores of the sponge so the water being returned to the tank is relatively clean. This type of filter is available in a variety of sizes so it can be used as either a main filter for a small tank or as a supplemental filter for a large tank. Because sponge filters have a limited range when it comes to water intake, they are not recommended as the main filter for large tanks.
While some type of sponge is generally sufficient to remove solid waste particles from aquarium water, it cannot remove dissolved wastes and organic pollutants. Some of the pollutants chemical filtration helps to remove include organic acids, proteins, hormones, metabolic waste and organic compounds. In order to remove these substances, many aquarium filters include some type of chemical filter media like activated carbon. As water is taken up into the filter it passes through the sponge, which absorbs solid waste particles, and the filter media which absorbs the organic pollutants. Chemical filtration also helps to remove a variety of toxins including ammonia and nitrate, though a third type of filtration is necessary to completely remove these toxins from tank water.
When it comes to picking out your first aquarium, the major choice you need to make is in regards to the size. Glass and acrylic aquariums range in size from one gallon to over two hundred gallons. As a beginner in this hobby you may be tempted to start out with a small aquarium, thinking that it will be easier to maintain. The truth, however, is that a moderately sized aquarium between twenty and thirty gallons is actually easier to maintain successfully than a tank ten gallons or smaller. Because the water volume in a larger tank is greater, toxins will be more diluted and you will have a little more room for mistakes than you would with a smaller tank. Take this 
When decorating your tank, keep in mind that your fish need places to hide as well as open space for swimming. Rock caves and live plants are the ideal hiding places for fish but do not crowd your tank with these items. If you plan to use a rock cave, place it in the back corner of the tank so as to leave the front of the tank open for swimming space. When installing live or artificial plants in your tank, place the tallest plants in the back and install shorter plants in front of them. Aquarium substrate is available in a variety of shapes and sizes to suit your tastes, so use your imagination when decorating your tank – you do not have to stick with basic gravel or sand. Supplement your design with other decorations like rocks, driftwood and novelty items to complete the look of your tank.
As a new aquarist, it is wise to stock your tank with hardy fish that will be tolerant in the event that you make a mistake. It is also a good idea to select fish that are relatively easy to keep – those which do not have precise requirements for water parameters. Some fish recommended for new hobbyists include Mollies, Swordtails, Guppies, Danios and Tetras. All of these fish are community species, which means that they can coexist peacefully with others of their species as well as other community fish. If you want to start off with something a little more than just the basics, ask one of the professionals at your local pet store for recommendations.
If you have been an aquarium hobbyist for a while, the chances are good that you have had your fair share of experience with aquarium snails. In small numbers these invertebrates can actually be useful in the home aquarium, but once their numbers begin to spiral out of control they can become a nuisance. Snails can multiply quickly and if you allow their population to grow it may soon reach an unmanageable level and you will have to take drastic action to rid your tank of these pests. You have no reason to fear, however, because there are a few simple things you can do to avoid this problem.
If you notice a few unwanted snails in your aquarium, take action quickly in order to avoid an infestation. Pick snails off the glass and off your plants by hand as you see them and drop them into a cup of saltwater to kill them. If you have a large number of snails in your tank already this method could be very time consuming. In order to remove a large number of snails at once, try blanching a piece of lettuce in hot water, then drop it into your tank just before you go to bed at night. In the morning the lettuce will be covered with snails feeding on the decaying plant matter. Simply remove the lettuce from the tank, along with all the snails, and discard it.
After removing the appropriate amount of water from your tank, replace it with fresh, de-chlorinated tap water. Chlorine and chloramine are chemicals commonly added to tap water to make it safe for human consumption, but these same chemicals are toxic to fish so they must be removed before adding water to your tank. The quickest method is to use a de-chlorinating solution. Simply pick up a bottle of de-chlorinating solution from your local pet store and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to determine how many drops or teaspoons to add per gallon of water. Another way to remove chlorine from tap water is to let the water sit in a large open container for at least twenty-four hours. The chlorine in the water will evaporate, making the water safe to use. Keep in mind that this method is only effective for removing chlorine, not chloramine. If your tap water is treated with chloramine you will need to use a de-chlorinating solution to safely remove it.
Use a clean sponge to wipe algae off the walls of your tank or check your local pet store for a magnetic algae scrubber that allows you to accomplish this task without having to get your hands wet. For stubborn algae, scrape the walls of your tank using a razor blade. If you use this method, be careful to avoid scratching the tank walls.
Semi-aggressive species like Gouramis, Barbs, Eels, Sharks and Loaches make up the second category of tropical fish. These species tend to grow larger than most community fish and, thus, should be kept in tanks no smaller than 29 gallons in capacity. The species belonging to this category, especially the males, may display aggression toward other fish in the tank and often become territorial. If you choose to keep semi-aggressive fish in your tank, it is wise to balance out the tank with a number of peaceful community fish. When mixing community fish with semi-aggressive species, try to avoid any major size differences or the larger semi-aggressive species may bully your smaller community fish.
To prevent situations like this from arising, you must make a choice between maintaining a community tank or limiting the number of fish you have in your tank to avoid problems. If you choose to keep a community tank you can still include a few semi-aggressive fish provided you do not keep more than one male of any species. Keep the adult size of the fish in mind as well because even semi-aggressive fish may eat small community fish.
Guppies
Mollies
Neon Tetras
Danios
Barbs
Plecostomus
Before you can set up your tank you need to decide where you are going to put it. When selecting a location for your tank you need to consider more than just where the tank will look best. Think of a location for your
The main advantage of purchasing your fish in-store is that you can actually see and observe the fish for yourself before you buy. While this does not guarantee that the fish you bring home will be completely healthy, you will at least have some control over the selection of your fish. When purchasing from an online retailer or breeder you do not have the luxury of choosing the exact fish you want. While this is considered a disadvantage to some aquarium hobbyists, the fish you receive from a breeder may actually be healthier than those you might buy from a pet store. The fish in the pet store may already be stressed from the shipping process, but purchasing from a breeder ensures that the fish are shipped directly to you with no stops in between.
There are several things to look for when buying fish from a pet store. Select fish that are lively and active – they shouldn’t be floating at the surface or lolling about on the bottom of the tank. If possible, visit the store while the fish are being fed to see which fish have a healthy appetite. Look for fish with intact fins, no swelling or redness around the gills and clear eyes. If there are any growths, discolored patches or signs of bloating do not purchase the fish.
To minimize the stress to your fish and to maximize the ease of cleaning, hospital tanks should be kept relatively bare. Fill your hospital tank with as much water from the main tank as possible in order to make the transition easier on your sick or injured fish. If you do need to add new water to fill the tank, make sure it is as close in temperature to the main tank as possible. Set up your submersible aquarium heater and set it to the desired temperature. Allow the temperature in the tank to stabilize before you transfer the fish.
Once your fish has recovered and you have transferred it back into the main tank you will need to disinfect the hospital tank before storing or reusing it. Empty the tank completely and re-fill it with a ten-to-one solution of water to bleach. Let the filter run for about an hour to ensure that the entire tank and the filter itself have been fully disinfected. To remove the bleach safely, empty the tank and refill it – then dose it with ten times the normal amount of de-chlorinating solution. Once you have let the filter run for at least an hour it will be safe to empty the tank then dry it and store it.
The largest block of time you will have to devote to your new hobby as an aquarium owner is at the beginning. Not only should you perform some basic research to determine what kind of fish you want to raise and how to customize your tank to suit their needs, but you also need to select and set up your tank. You could spend hours doing research planning the perfect tank for your fish, or you could simply ask the sales associate at your local pet store for a recommendation of easy starter fish. Selecting a fish tank is generally a matter of preference when it comes to shape, but the size should be determined by the type of fish you intend to raise.
In addition to the cost of setting up your aquarium, you will also need to purchase your fish. When you are just starting out it is wise to select hardy community fish like swordtails, tetras and danios. These fish generally cost less than $5 each, making them some of the most affordable fish as well as some of the easiest to keep. As you gain experience in the hobby you may graduate to more difficult species like cichlids. These fish can grow rather large and generally cost between $10 and $30 each. Larger fish are generally more expensive than smaller ones, but they also tend to live longer which means you will not have to purchase replacements quite so often.
Another obvious factor in determining which size fish tank is right for you is the type and number of fish you intend to keep. It is often recommended that novice aquarists stock their tank using the principle of one inch of fish per gallon of water. However, this is a very general rule at best and can be misleading if taken literally. If you plan to follow this rule, take the adult size of your fish into consideration rather than the size they are when you purchase them. Also, you must realize that certain species of fish require more room than other species, even though they may be of similar size. Smaller community fish can generally be kept in tanks 30 gallons or less in capacity, but some fish like Oscars and Cichlids, require at least 50 gallons. Before you purchase a tank, research the type of fish you want to keep to see what tank size they prefer. When researching, keep in mind that some fish have preferences not only for tank size but also for tank shape. Species with tall fins like Angelfish, for example, may prefer tanks that are taller than they are wide.
The 
