Freshwater Aquarium Water Chemistry Basics

What Are the Main Causes of Low PH in an Aquarium? Pt. 1

In Part 1 of this two-part article you’ll discover some of the reasons why pH levels can drop in your aquarium and what you can do about it.

If you have done any research about maintaining a healthy freshwater tank, you have probably read a great deal about pH and its effect on tank inhabitants. Not only does the pH level of your tank affect the water quality, but it can also have an impact on the health and vitality of your fish. Many novice aquarium hobbyists experience problems with low pH or a sudden drop in pH in their tanks and, when this happens, they are at a loss what to do. If you are experiencing pH problems in your tank, it is wise to first identify the cause of the problem and to make the necessary corrections before taking steps to adjust the pH back to a normal level.

The Basics about Aquarium pH

The pH of your aquarium is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline your tank water is and it is measured on a scale from 1 to 14. A pH value of 7.0 is neutral while values below 7.0 are considered acidic and values above 7.0 are considered alkaline. Most species of aquarium fish can tolerate a pH range from 6.5 to 7.5 but certain species like some cichlids are very sensitive to changes in pH and require a certain, stable level. Before you set up your tank for the first time it is wise to test the pH of the tap water you intend to use to fill your tank. The pH of your tap water may vary according to where you live and, depending on the species of fish you plan to keep, you may need to make adjustments to reach the ideal pH level in your tank. Once you have established the proper pH it is a good idea to monitor it with weekly water tests so you can catch any changes in pH before they become a major problem. It is not uncommon for aquariums to suffer a change or drop in pH and the sooner you take action to correct it, the less likely it will be to have a negative effect on your fish.

Causes for a Drop in pH

You already know that low pH values (values below 7.0) are considered acidic, so it makes sense that the pH level in your tank will drop following the addition of acids. Extra acid can make its way into your tank through several means — some are naturally occurring and some may be the result of a mistake on your part. Some of the naturally occurring causes of a pH drop include excess carbon dioxide, tannins from driftwood and the nitrification stage of biological filtration. Carbon dioxide (CO2) is the natural product of respiration, so the more fish you have in your tank the higher your CO2 levels are likely to be. The decay of plant matter can also increase the CO2 levels in a tank and many biofilters actually produce carbon dioxide. The best way to counteract high CO2 levels is to ensure that you have plenty of live plants in your tank – live aquarium plants utilize CO2 in the process of photosynthesis, using light as an energy source to convert CO2 into oxygen for respiration.

Another possible cause for a drop in pH is the leaching of tannins from driftwood or leaf litter. Driftwood is often used for décor in the aquarium trade because it provides cover for fish while enhancing the “natural” appearance of the tank. If you do not properly treat your driftwood before adding it to the tank, however, it can cause problems with your water chemistry. Driftwood contains tannins, or tannic acid, a natural compound occurring that stains water yellow or brown – tannins are responsible for creating “blackwater” habitats like the Amazon River. To prevent tannins from affecting your water chemistry, boil the driftwood or soak it for a period of several weeks before adding it to the tank. Boiling and soaking driftwood will help facilitate the release of the tannins, thus decreasing the chance that the driftwood will cause a pH drop in your tank.

In addition to excess carbon dioxide and tannins in the water, a pH drop may also be caused by the nitrification stage of biological filtration. Nitrification is the process through which beneficial bacteria in the aquarium convert ammonia to nitrite and then into nitrate. Ammonia is a substance toxic to fish, so the process of converting it into nitrate is extremely important for maintaining a healthy tank. During this process, however, your tank may experience a natural drop in pH as a result of the production of nitrite ions. Once your tank has properly cycled, however, it should establish a balance capable of counteracting this drop in pH to keep the water chemistry stable for your tank inhabitants.

Click Here for Part 2 of “What Are The Main Causes Of Low Ph In An Aquarium”

What Are the Main Causes of Low PH in an Aquarium? Pt. 2

Maintaining stable water chemistry is the key to keeping your freshwater aquarium running smoothly and your tank inhabitants healthy. One of the most important aspects of water chemistry is pH and there are a variety of factors which may lead to a change or drop in …

In Part 2 of this two-part article you’ll gain insight on how medications and aquarium substrate can impact pH levels and the possible remedies you have available. Haven’t read Part 1? Click here.

Maintaining stable water chemistry is the key to keeping your freshwater aquarium running smoothly and your tank inhabitants healthy. If the water quality in your tank decreases or your tank experiences a sudden change in water chemistry, your fish could become stressed and may even die. One of the most important aspects of water chemistry is pH and there are a variety of factors which may lead to a change or drop in pH. In addition to naturally occurring conditions such as excess carbon dioxide, tannins from driftwood and the nitrification stage of biological filtration, a drop in pH could also be the result of a mistake on your part as an aquarium hobbyist. Overdosing your tank on medications or adding the wrong kind of substrate can have a negative effect on the pH in your aquarium and, if you do not take quick action to remedy the mistake, your fish could suffer.

Administering Medication Safely

It is wise to use caution when adding any kind of chemical to your aquarium, even medications designed to help your fish overcome disease. Many medications contain substances that can be toxic to fish in high doses, so not only should you be careful when using these treatments for this reason, but these chemicals may also have an effect on the water chemistry in your tank. Read the instructions on the medication carefully to determine whether you need to make any adjustments to your tank before administering the treatment. Many treatments require the removal of activated carbon filter media and some treatments are most effective at a certain tank temperature. In addition to chemical medications, many aquarium hobbyists use salt baths to treat certain aquarium fish diseases. Adding too much salt to aquarium water can change the water chemistry of your tank and, in combination with other medications, it could potentially cause a severe drop in pH. To prevent any serious consequences, test your tank’s pH before beginning a treatment regimen and monitor it closely throughout – if the pH begins to drop, stop the treatment until you have remedied the situation or select a different treatment option to try. I use the American Marine pH Monitor and have experienced great success with it. It is very accurate and very easy to use.

Choosing the Right Aquarium Substrate

When it comes to selecting the substrate for your freshwater tank, you have many options to choose from. Standard gravel and aquarium sand are two of the most popular options, but some aquarium hobbyists are tempted to go a different route for the sake of being unique. Certain aquarium substrates like Oil Dri, Turface and Soilmaster have all been known to cause a drop in aquarium pH. If you plan to use any of these substrates in your aquarium, be aware of this possibility and consider mixing it with another substrate to balance it out. Another substance many aquarium hobbyists use as substrate in their tanks is peat moss — it is typically used as a fertilizer for planted tanks and is often covered with a layer of some other substrate to prevent it from staining the water. Like driftwood, peat moss contains tannins or tannic acids that naturally lower the pH of aquarium water. To avoid having problems with a drop in pH, be aware of the potential side effects of whatever type of aquarium substrate you choose. Standard aquarium gravel and sand are unlikely to have an effect on aquarium water chemistry, so if you are looking for a risk-free option one of these substrates may be your best choice.

Correcting Drops in Aquarium pH

If your aquarium experiences a sudden drop in pH it is wise to take quick action to remedy the situation before your fish come to any harm. Luckily, there are several simple ways to increase aquarium pH. One of the easiest ways to raise the pH in your tank is to add baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Adding 1ml of baking soda per 10 liters of tank water can raise the pH as high as 8.2, so add the baking soda slowly and monitor the pH as you go so you can stop when it reaches the appropriate level. Another way to increase the pH in your tank is to add equal parts baking soda, Epsom salt and marine salt to the tank at a rate of 1ml per 10 liters of tank water. This mixture will not only raise the pH of your tank but it may also increase the water hardness, so exercise caution when utilizing this method to avoid hardening the water in your tank too much. Though this method is not recommended as a means of temporarily raising pH, the addition of calcitic gravel to your tank can also increase the pH. Not only does calcitic gravel increase aquarium pH, but it also increases the buffering capacity of the water so it is unlikely to drop below 7.5. If the fish in your tank require a neutral or slightly acidic pH, do not use this method to correct a drop in pH because it could raise the pH level too high.

What Causes Ammonia and How to Control It Pt. 2

Once you have learned the ways ammonia can enter your tank and the possible effects it can have on your fish, you may begin learning how to control it. In order to control the level of ammonia …

Excessively high ammonia levels can cause your fish to succumb to ammonia poisoning – a potentially fatal condition. In Part 2 of this two-part article you’ll discover some treatment options for ammonia poisoning and valuable tips to keep ammonia under control.

Not only can excess ammonia lower the water quality in your tank and indirectly affect the health of your fish, but it can also directly harm your fish by causing ammonia poisoning. Ammonia poisoning can be fatal in fish and it is just one of the many problems likely to be caused by excess ammonia in the freshwater tank. Once you have learned the ways ammonia can enter your tank and the possible effects it can have on your fish, you may begin learning how to control it. In order to control the level of ammonia in your tank you may need to utilize an aquarium water test kit to monitor the ammonia levels as you make changes to your tank environment. By monitoring the ammonia levels as you make changes you will be able to tell which changes have the most effect on lowering your ammonia levels and which changes have little or no effect.

Treatment for Ammonia Poisoning

If your fish are suffering from ammonia poisoning as a result of excess ammonia in the tank water, the first thing you should do is treat them for this condition. Begin by testing the ammonia levels in your tank water using an aquarium water test kit – if the test results come back with an ammonia level above 1ppm it is essential that you begin treatment immediately. The quickest way to bring relief to fish suffering from ammonia poisoning is to lower the pH of your tank below 7.0. The toxicity of ammonia increases at a higher pH, so lowering the pH in your tank will help mitigate the damaging effects of the ammonia. Performing a 50% water change along with several additional water changes over a period of several days may also help lower the ammonia level in your tank below 1 ppm.

While treating your fish for ammonia poisoning it may be wise to reduce the amount you feed your fish or to stop feeding them entirely for a short period of time. Reducing the amount of food you offer your fish will reduce the amount of waste being produced and, thus, will decrease the production of ammonia in the tank. Repeat your aquarium water tests daily as you treat for ammonia poisoning and continue the treatments until the ammonia level drops to zero. You should be aware that even after the ammonia levels in your tank begin to stabilize you may still lose fish to ammonia poisoning if they sustained too much damage to recover. Avoid adding any new fish to your tank until you have gotten the ammonia and nitrite levels under control.

Tips for Controlling Ammonia Levels

While lowering the pH in your tank and performing a large water change are two of the quickest ways to reduce ammonia levels, there are a variety of things you should do to keep the ammonia in your tank from getting out of control in the first place. Avoid adding too many new fish to your tank at once because such a sudden addition to the biological load of the tank could shock the system – the colonies of beneficial bacteria in your tank need time to adjust to increased levels of waste production in order to keep ammonia and nitrite levels under control. On a related note, it is unwise to feed your fish too much because this too could result in excess waste production and the accumulation of uneaten fish food. Experienced aquarium hobbyists often recommend feeding freshwater fish small quantities of food twice a day. Only offer your fish as much as they can eat in a 3 to 5 minute period of time and remove uneaten portions of sinking wafers and discs after an hour, before they completely dissolve.

The easiest thing you can do to control ammonia levels – and to maintain high water quality in your tank – is to perform regular water changes. Replace between 10% and 25% of the water in your tank with freshly conditioned tap water once a week and perform a large water change up to 50% of the tank volume once a month. Along with refreshing the water in your tank, it is wise to replace your filter media every 3 to 4 weeks to prevent the filter from becoming clogged. In addition to cleaning the filter once in a while you might also consider adding some supplemental filter media like ion exchange resins to help remove ammonia and nitrites from your tank water. Though all of these methods are helpful in controlling ammonia levels, perhaps the most important thing you should do is to monitor your aquarium water chemistry through weekly water tests. Keep an eye on the ammonia levels in your tank and, if they begin to climb, take action immediately to discover the cause and to remedy it. If you are aware of what is going on in your tank you will be better equipped to tackle problems like excess ammonia quickly before they can harm your fish.

What Causes Ammonia and How to Control It Pt. 1

If the ammonia level in your tank gets out of control, your fish could suffer from ammonia poisoning and may even die as a result. In order to effectively control the ammonia level in your tank, you first need to understand …

Ammonia is a naturally occuring compound in a freshwater aquarium. In Part 1 of this two-part article you’ll learn how ammonia enters your tank and what problems this can cause if left unchecked.

Ammonia, or NH₃, is a chemical compound formed by the combination of nitrogen and hydrogen atoms. This compound occurs naturally in the home aquarium but, in high doses, it can be extremely toxic to fish. If the ammonia level in your tank gets out of control, your fish could suffer from ammonia poisoning and may even die as a result. In order to effectively control the ammonia level in your tank, you first need to understand where ammonia comes from and how it can affect your tank – then you can begin to learn how to keep it under control.

How Ammonia Enters Your Tank

There are two different forms ammonia can take in the home aquarium: free ammonia (NH₃) or ammonium ions (NH₄). The amount of each of these compounds, as well as their level of toxicity, depends on various environmental factors in your tank. The first way ammonia can enter your aquarium is through your tap water. Most tap water has been treated with either chlorine or chloramine to make it safe for human consumption but, as you may be aware, both of these chemicals are toxic to fish. What you may not know is that chloramine is formed by binding chlorine to ammonium. Thus, using tap water that has been treated with chloramine can increase the ammonia content in your tank. While most water conditioners effectively remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water, the ammonium bound to the chlorine atoms may also be released into the water at this time. To prevent this from causing problems in your tank, look for a water conditioner that treats both chlorine and ammonia.

Another way in which ammonia enters your tank is through the decomposition of organic matter. As organic materials like uneaten fish food, fish feces and decaying plant matter break down, ammonia is released into the water. The more organic waste you allow to accumulate in your tank, the higher your ammonia levels are likely to be. As part of the nitrogen cycle, the beneficial bacteria in your tank will work to break down the ammonia that results from decomposition into less harmful substances like nitrites and nitrates, but these bacteria can only do so much. If the amount of organic waste in your tank exceeds the capabilities of your beneficial bacteria to handle, you may experience problems with high ammonia levels.

The final way in which ammonia can enter the tank is through your fish. As your aquarium fish eat and digest protein, their bodies absorb the amino acids that serve as the building blocks of those proteins. These amino acids are then distributed throughout the bodies of your fish as needed where they can be synthesized into a new protein to foster healthy growth. Any excess amino acids are returned to the liver where they are broken down, or they may be rejected into the blood and the ammonia left over from these processes is excreted through the gills. If your fish are given more protein than their bodies can effectively use, it could result in the rejection of a large quantity of amino acids and thus the release of high quantities of ammonia into the tank.

Problems Caused by Excess Ammonia

Even if you are a novice aquarium hobbyist, you probably know by now that too much ammonia in the aquarium is bad. What you may not know, however, is exactly what kind of problems excess ammonia can actually cause in the home aquarium. The major problem with excess ammonia is that it leads to a decrease in water quality. Maintaining high water quality in your tank is essential for maintaining the health of your aquarium fish – if the water quality in your tank declines, the health of your fish may decline as well. Another problem caused by excess ammonia is ammonia poisoning. Ammonia is a toxic chemical for aquarium fish and it acts as a tissue irritant, targeting exposed tissue like the gills. Excess ammonia can lead to hemorrhaging in the gills along with a condition called hyperplasia which may reduce the ability of fish to absorb oxygen from tank water. Additionally, the damage to the gills caused by ammonia can inhibit the ability of fish to excrete ammonia from the body, thus leading to internal damage as a result of high ammonia levels in the body. Ammonia poisoning is a very serious condition, one which can be fatal to fish, so it is important to monitor the ammonia levels in your tank and to take steps to control excess ammonia.

Continue to Part 2 of “What Causes Ammonia And How To Control It”

How To Maintain Proper Nitrite And Nitrate Levels In The Freshwater Aquarium

Though nitrites and nitrates are less toxic than ammonia for aquarium fish, it is still important to monitor and maintain appropriate levels of these substances in your tank. Before you can do this, however, you need to cultivate an understanding of …

Maintaining the proper nitrite and nitrate levels in an aquarium is essential to healthy, happy fish. In this article, you’ll learn how to accomplish this important task as well as employing some help to automatically maintain the proper levels in your aquarium.

Even novice aquarium hobbyists understand the importance of maintaining the nitrogen cycle in their tank, but understanding the components of the nitrogen cycle can be a little more difficult. Simply put, the nitrogen cycle is the process through which colonies of beneficial bacteria in an aquarium convert harmful substances like ammonia into less harmful nitrites and nitrates. Though nitrites and nitrates are less toxic than ammonia for aquarium fish, it is still important to monitor and maintain appropriate levels of these substances in your tank. Before you can do this, however, you need to cultivate an understanding of what these two substances are and learn how much is too much for your tank.

Nitrite and Nitrate Basics

Ammonia (NH₃) is a toxic chemical that forms as a result of the breakdown of organic wastes in the home aquarium. These wastes may include uneaten fish food, fish feces and decaying plant matter. Nitrifying bacteria in the tank – particularly Nitrosomonas spp. – break down ammonia into nitrite (NO₂-) which can still be toxic to fish in large quantities. Following the breakdown into nitrite, other bacteria like Nitrobacter spp. break the nitrites down into nitrate (NO₃-) which is the least toxic of these three substances.

Proper Nitrite and Nitrate Levels

In order to keep track of the nitrite and nitrate levels in your tank, it is wise to perform weekly water tests. Visit your local pet store or check online for aquarium water testing kits – these kits are easy to use and typically cost less than $20. The ideal nitrite level for a freshwater tank as recommended by the Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association (OATA) is 0.2mg/l or less. When nitrite levels are too high, the fish in your tank could become poisoned and may, in effect, suffocate as a result of the nitrites binding the hemoglobin in their blood to prevent it from carrying oxygen. One of the most identifiable symptoms of nitrite poisoning is brown, discolored gills.

Nitrate is much less toxic for aquarium fish than nitrite, but it can still be harmful in large doses. The OATA recommends that the nitrate level in freshwater tanks not exceed the nitrate level of the tap water used to fill the tank by more than 50 mg/l. In order to determine this, of course, you will need to test your tap water to get a base reading. Though nitrate is generally less harmful than nitrite, particular species are sensitive to it and their health could be negatively affected at high levels. If you maintain nitrate levels below 25 to 30 ppm (parts per million) you’ll generally be in the safe zone for most freshwater fish. Of course, always know the specific needs of the particular species you’re keeping to know the desired levels.

How to Reduce Nitrite/Nitrate Levels in Your Tank

While most of the work in maintaining nitrite and nitrate levels in your tank is taken care of by colonies of beneficial bacteria, sometimes these bacteria need a little help. If your tank is overstocked or if something happened to kill off a large quantity of nitrifying bacteria, you may need to take steps to lower the nitrite and nitrate levels yourself. The quickest way to reduce both nitrite and nitrate levels is to reduce the stocking density of your tank – move some of your fish to another tank. The more fish you have in your tank, the more waste they will produce and your beneficial bacteria will have to work overtime to break it down. The type of fish you have in your tank may also affect the nitrite and nitrate levels because some fish, particularly goldfish and carnivorous species, produce more waste than others.

Another way to lower the nitrite and nitrate levels in your tank is to dilute them with a large water change. To ensure that this method works, it is wise to test the new water to check the nitrite/nitrate levels before adding it to your tank. Increasing the number of live plants in your tank can also help to reduce nitrate levels and adding live beneficial bacteria to your tank can boost the biological filtration in your tank. In cases of severely high nitrate levels you might also try using ion exchange resins in your filter media. Ion exchange resins target specific compounds like ammonia and nitrate, filtering them out of aquarium water before they enter the nitrogen cycle. There are a variety of methods to choose from if you need to reduce the nitrite or nitrate levels in your aquarium but, generally, your beneficial bacteria should take care of it for you.

Understanding the Relationship Between Water Quality and Fish Diseases

Even if you are new to the aquarium hobby you have probably heard it said that high water quality is the key to keeping your fish healthy. If you understand the relationship between water quality and fish diseases you will be better equipped with the knowledge necessary to …

In this article you’ll learn how aquarium water quality and fish diseases are directly related and get tips for maintaining good water quality for your fish.

Even if you are new to the aquarium hobby you have probably heard it said that high water quality is the key to keeping your fish healthy. But what exactly is water quality and what does it have to do with preventing your fish from contracting diseases? Learning the answers to these questions is something every aquarium hobbyist should take seriously. If you understand the relationship between water quality and fish diseases you will be better equipped with the knowledge necessary to keep your aquarium clean. A clean aquarium is, after all, the key to healthy aquarium fish.

What is Water Quality?

Water quality is simply a term aquarium hobbyists use to describe the condition of the water in an aquarium. This term encompasses a variety of measurements including pH, water hardness, salinity and chemical content. PH is a measurement of how acidic or alkaline the water in your aquarium is, measured on a scale from 0 to 14 with a value of 7.0 being neutral. The hardness of aquarium water, measured in degrees of general hardness (dGH or °GH), is a measurement of the mineral content of the water. Salinity is, of course, a measurement of the amount of salt in the water. In addition to monitoring the pH, water hardness and salinity of your tank it is also wise to keep an eye on the chemical content. Toxins like ammonia and nitrites may build up in the tank over time and if you do not take steps to remove them, your fish could suffer.

How Water Quality Can Affect Fish

You probably already know that in order to make sure your fish thrive in captivity you must simulate their natural environment as much as possible in your home tank. Recreating the natural habitat of your fish requires more than just mimicking the substrate, lighting and temperature – you must also match the water conditions. Some species of fish, like most Anabantoids, can naturally be found in slightly acidic waters whereas many Cichlids and some species of Tetra prefer a higher pH. If the pH in your tank does not match the requirements of your fish, they could become stressed or die as a result. Stressed fish are much more susceptible to disease than healthy fish – some of the most common fish diseases like Ich are most often brought about by poor water quality. You may also encounter problems with the beneficial bacteria in your tank if the pH drops below 6.0. Beneficial bacteria are extremely important in maintaining the nitrogen cycle and if your tank pH drops too low, these bacteria could die and the tank could recycle, killing your fish. As the tank cycles, the water quality could drop dramatically which could also result in an increased chance of your fish becoming sick.

Water hardness is another important aspect of water quality that can affect fish health. Water hardness is a measure of the mineral content in tank water and the higher that content is, the more difficulty fish may have in maintaining the proper balance of body fluids. In cases like this, fish are likely to become stressed and, as a result, could become more susceptible to diseases such as bacterial, fungal and viral infections. The hardness of the water in your tank could also interfere with any medications you are using to treat fish diseases. Some medications, such as chloramine-T, can become toxic in water that is too soft so be sure to consider the water hardness in your tank when medicating sick fish.

How to Monitor Water Parameters

Fortunately, monitoring the water parameters in your tank is easy – all you need is an aquarium water test kit. You can find these kits online or at your local pet store, typically for under $20. Aquarium water test kits usually come in two forms – one in which you dip test strips into a cup of tank water and another in which you collect samples in small test tubes and add drops of a test solution. Once you have taken the sample, you need only compare the color of the sample to the chart included with the test kit. In order to maintain stable water parameters in your tank it is wise to test the water quality once a week. When you are first setting up your tank, however, it may be a good idea to test more frequently. While your tank is cycling it is wise to keep an eye on the levels of ammonia and nitrites. Once the tests start to pick up nitrate readings it is usually safe to assume that that nitrogen cycle has been established.

Tips for Keeping Water Quality High

The best course of action to take if you hope to keep the water quality in your tank high is to perform regular water changes and to ensure that the tank has adequate filtration. Your aquarium filter should incorporate both mechanical and chemical filtration in order to remove solid as well as dissolved wastes from aquarium water. Performing weekly 10% to 25% water changes will help to keep the water in your tank from becoming too hard as the water evaporates, leaving minerals behind. Water changes will also help to counteract the negative effects of waste build-up in your substrate. While some waste build-up is necessary in order to keep the nitrogen cycle going, excessive waste can put a strain on the beneficial bacteria in your tank and may result in decreased water quality.

Another way to keep your aquarium clean is to engage in tactics that prevent it from becoming dirty in the first place. Introducing algae-eating species of fish into your tank can help to control algae growth which, if allowed to spread freely, could eventually impact water quality. It is also wise to avoid overfeeding your fish in order to prevent the excessive build-up of waste in your aquarium substrate. Only feed your fish as much as they can consume in 3 to 5 minutes and remove uneaten portions of sinking pellets and wafers from the tank after an hour. If you make the effort to keep your tank clean, your fish will be much less likely to become stressed as a result of poor aquarium water quality and they will also be less likely to contract diseases.

The Basics Of Aquarium Water Chemistry Explained

The term “water chemistry” is used by aquarium hobbyists to describe the physical and chemical characteristics of the water in an aquarium. Monitoring the chemistry of aquarium water and making changes when necessary is one of the many things you can do to keep your tank healthy and your aquarium fish thriving. Water chemistry is very important in maintaining a healthy aquarium because unless you understand the basics of …

Monitoring the chemistry of aquarium water and making changes when necessary is one of the many things you can do to keep your tank healthy and your aquarium fish thriving.

The term “water chemistry” is used by aquarium hobbyists to describe the physical and chemical characteristics of the water in an aquarium. These characteristics typically include the pH, alkalinity, water hardness and salinity of the water as well as dissolved nutrients and chemicals. Water chemistry is very important in maintaining a healthy aquarium because unless you understand the basics of water chemistry and regularly test the water in your tank, you will be unequipped to keep the water quality in your tank high. If the water quality in your tank declines your fish could become stressed and, as a result, may become more susceptible to disease. Monitoring the water chemistry in your tank and making changes when necessary is one of the many things you can do to keep your tank healthy and your aquarium fish thriving.

How to Test Water Quality

Thankfully, testing the water quality in your aquarium has been made easy by the availability of aquarium water testing strips. You can find these strips, along with entire testing kits, at your local pet store and you can also order them online. Aquarium water testing kits come with a set of instructions as to how to use the enclosed materials. Most test kits are fairly simple to use, however, and follow the same basic principle. Some test kits come with paper strips that you dip into a cup of tank water and then compare the color on the strip to a chart included with the kit. Other kits require you to take individual samples of aquarium water then add a few drops of the test solution. Once the sample changes colors, it can then be compared to the chart included with the kit. It is wise to perform these tests on a weekly basis to prevent any sudden drops or spikes in water chemistry that could negatively affect your fish as well as the water quality in your tank. One company that’s made it fast and easy to test aquarium water is Tetra. Tetra Easy Strips provide 7 tests in one kit. Scientific quality results are ready in 60 seconds or less and there’s no solutions to mix – just dip and read. It can’t get any easier than that!

Components of Water Quality

pH – The pH in your tank is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. PH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14 – a reading of 7.0 is considered neutral while readings above 7.0 are alkaline and below 7.0 are acidic. The proper pH for a freshwater aquarium depends on the particular species of fish being housed in the tank, but for a community tank housing a variety of tropical species, a pH of 7.2 to 7.8 is recommended. The pH in your tank should be tested on a weekly basis because organic materials such as fish waste and uneaten fish food can cause the pH level to change.

Buffering Capacity – This term is used to describe the ability of aquarium water to maintain a stable pH. As acids and bases are added to the aquarium, water that has sufficient buffering capacity should be able to absorb the acids, thus preventing any significant change in pH. Aquarium water can only provide so much buffering, however, so once the buffering capacity has been used up changes in pH can occur quickly if acids or bases are added. The most significant contribution buffering capacity makes to your aquarium is during the nitrogen cycle. During this cycle, nitrates (nitric acid) are produced which, if not for the buffering capacity of your aquarium water, would result in a gradual drop in pH. The buffering capacity of aquarium water is typically described in terms of KH (carbonate hardness or alkalinity) which can be measured in degrees of general hardness, or °dH.

General Hardness (GH) – Different from carbonate hardness (KH), general hardness measures the non-carbonate hardness of water. General hardness (GH) measures the concentration of dissolved ions such as calcium, magnesium and other minerals in aquarium water. When it comes to measuring the hardness of water, the terms “soft” and “hard” are often used. Soft water typically has a measurement between 0° and 3.36°dH, moderately hard water measures between 3.42° and 6.72°dH and hard water measures between 6.78° and 10.08°dH. Water that reads above 10.14°dH is said to be very hard. Frequent water changes are necessary in order to maintain a stable GH.

$refractometer$ Salinity – The salinity of aquarium water is a measure of its salt content. The most common way to measure salinity is through the use of a hydrometer or refractometer. Specific gravity is another way to measure the amount of dissolved salts in aquarium water and it has a different scale than salinity. Salinity is measured in parts per thousand (ppt) whereas specific gravity is measured in terms of the ratio of the density of aquarium water to the density of pure water. The specific gravity of pure water is 1.0000g/cm3 – thus, water with any salt content at all will have a specific gravity above 1.0000.

Nutrients and Trace Elements – One of the elements that should be tested for frequently in the home aquarium is ammonia (NH3). This substance is toxic to fish, so its levels need to be closely monitored with regular water tests. Nitrite and Nitrate levels should also be tested. Nitrites can prevent fish from breathing properly and high nitrate levels often indicate a build-up of fish waste and organic compounds which can negatively affect water quality. Electrolytes are molecular substances which are important for regulating hydration, blood pH, disease resistance and muscle function in fish. Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium and Sodium are some of the most important electrolytes which can be tested for.

Tips for Maintaining High Water Quality

The key to keeping your aquarium clean and your fish happy is to maintain high water quality. If the water in your tank is cloudy, dirty or contains high levels of toxins and dissolved waste your fish could become stressed. A stressed fish is more susceptible to disease and can deteriorate quickly if the cause for its stress is not remedied. In order to keep the water quality in your tank high it is essential that you perform regular water changes and monitor water quality with routine water tests. Small water changes between 10% and 20% should be made on a weekly basis and a larger water change, at least 25%, may need to be made once a month. These regular aquarium water changes will help to prevent the build-up of harmful toxins and other wastes that cause a drop in pH and negatively affect the overall quality of water. In turn, your fish will be much more healthy and happy and have a better chance of fighting off disease.

How To Modify Water Chemistry In A Freshwater Aquarium

If you have a basic understanding of the principles of water chemistry, and how to alter it, you’ll be better equipped to make changes to your tank when necessary. Quick action on your part can mean the difference between …

In order to keep your aquarium water quality high, and the fish in your tank healthy, it is important to understand basic water chemistry and how to manipulate it if the need arises. In this article, you’ll learn practical tips for maintaining happy, healthy fish.

To keep the water quality in your tank high, and the fish in your tank healthy, you should not only know what water chemistry is, but you should also learn how to manipulate it. It is not enough to understand that pH is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is – you need to know how to alter it if it becomes necessary. While pH is one of the most important aspects of water chemistry, it is not the only one. Elements that are also included are water hardness, buffering capacity, salinity and electrolytes. If you have a basic understanding of the principles of water chemistry, and how to alter it, you’ll be better equipped to make changes to your tank when necessary. Quick action on your part can mean the difference between a drop in pH being quickly remedied or killing all the fish in your tank.

How to Test Water Chemistry

Testing water chemistry is actually very easy – all you need is an aquarium water test kit. These kits can be found at your local pet store or they can be ordered online. Aquarium water test kits come in two varieties – some include test strips which can be dipped into a cup of tank water for testing and some include test tubes to which drops of a test solution are added. Once the water itself has been tested, the color of the test strip or sample can be compared to the chart included with the kit. These kits can measure several aspects of water chemistry, including pH and water hardness, as well as the presence of certain toxins and chemicals like ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. In order to monitor the water chemistry in your tank properly, you should perform water tests on a weekly basis and record the results in a journal to keep track of any changes.

How to Alter Water Chemistry

Raising pH – PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your aquarium is and it is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. Water having a reading of 7.0 is considered neutral while readings below 7.0 are acidic and above 7.0 are alkaline. There are a variety of ways to increase the pH in your tank, but some of the most popular ways are adding baking soda, Epsom salt, or calcium chloride. To raise pH, try dissolving 1 teaspoon of baking soda (NaHCO3) in 10 gallons of water. If you need to increase both the pH and KH (water hardness) in your tank, try using a mixture containing equal parts baking soda, Epsom salt and marine salt (calcium chloride). Use about 1 teaspoon of the mixture per 5 gallons of water. There are also commercial alkaline buffers made specifically for the aquarium hobby that will accomplish this goal.

Lowering pH – Lowering the pH in a freshwater tank can be tricky unless you are also able to buffer the water to the lower pH value. The buffering capacity of aquarium water refers to the ability of tank water to maintain a stable pH. If your tank water has a low buffering capacity while you try lowering the pH, it could result in an unstable pH which could harm or kill your fish. In order to first buffer the water, you must lower the alkalinity by using a source of naturally soft water such as rainwater or melted snow. Once you have lowered the alkalinity in your tank, you can then lower the pH using either peat moss or CO2 injection. Peat moss releases tannins into the water which will increase the acidity and lower the pH but it will also stain the water. Using a CO2 injector can be both tricky and expensive. This method is particularly dangerous because it will lower the pH in your tank without lowering the acidity so as soon as you stop the CO2 injections, the pH will increase rapidly as the CO2 leaves the water. A simpler way is to use a commercial acid buffer manufactured specifically for aquarium use.

Softening Water – To soften aquarium water simply means to lower the alkalinity. Soft water typically measures between 0°dH and 3.36°dH on the general hardness scale. In order to achieve a measurement this low it is best to start with water that is naturally soft. Rainwater, melted snow and water treated through reverse osmosis are all viable sources of soft water. If none of these options is available to you, you may need to purchase a reverse osmosis unit. These units can be very expensive, but if the alternative is to continue buying large quantities of R/O water, it may be the more financially sensible option.

Hardening Water – Increasing water hardness is much easier than decreasing it. On the scale of water hardness, moderately hard water measures between 3.42° and 6.72°dH and hard water measures between 6.78° and 10.08°dH. To harden water, simply add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salt per 10 gallons of water. You may also choose to add some calcium carbonate or marine salt to increase the calcium contribution to water hardness. Another way to increase the hardness of the water in your tank is to utilize calcitic gravel as a substrate – beware when using this technique, however, because it can raise the pH in your tank as well. Calcitic gravel can raise the pH in your tank up to 7.5 and it will also help to increase the buffering capacity of the tank water.

Electrolytes – The amount of sodium, one of the essential electrolytes in a freshwater tank, can be modified by adding one tablespoon of salt per five gallons of tank water. There are also some commercial products available that can be used to balance electrolytes in the home aquarium. These products are often marketed as buffers and may contain essential elements such as calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium and iron. Another popular product is the mineral block which dissolves slowly over time, releasing small amounts of electrolytes of a sustained period of time.

Tips for Monitoring and Maintaining Water Chemistry

While you may be able to find chemical treatments for raising or lowering pH, these treatments are generally not recommended. Adding chemicals to your tank should always be considered a last resort because of the possibility of adverse effects on the fish. Some chemical treatments can also have adverse effects on your tank. PH-lowering chemicals such as sodium biphosphate, for example, can provide nutrition for algae-since phosphate is a “food source” for algae. Thus, using this product in your tank may solve your problems with high pH, but it could be in exchange for a new problem with excess algae growth. If you do decide to use a chemical treatment, look for one that does not contain sodium biphosphate.

Regardless which method you select to alter the water chemistry in your tank, it is very important to test the water before, during and after the treatment. Testing the water before you begin treatment will give you a point of reference in order to gauge any changes that occur. It is also essential that you monitor the water chemistry during treatment to ensure that changes are not made too quickly and that the changes do not end up being too extreme. Extreme or rapid changes in water chemistry can put undue stress on your fish. Species that are not adaptable to sudden changes in water chemistry could be killed. In general, you don’t want to have more than a 2 point change in pH within a 24 hour period. For example, if the desired pH reading is 7.5 and the current reading is 7.0, then you should attempt to get the pH no higher than 7.2 within 24 hours. The operative word here is “attempt” since trying to hit a specific pH target is tricky at best. Depending on the general hardness of the water in your area, a simple 10-20% water change may be enough to accomplish the goal. Once you have completed the treatment, you should test the aquarium water chemistry to ensure that the levels are appropriate and check again within 24 hours to ensure that they have remained stable.