Freshwater Aquarium Basics Archives

20 Beginner-Friendly Fish Combinations for Freshwater Aquariums

Starting a freshwater aquarium is an exciting step for new hobbyists, but selecting the right fish can make or break your experience. For those just beginning, choosing beginner freshwater fish combinations ensures your tank is both easy to manage and enjoyable to watch. The best community fish for beginners are peaceful, hardy, and compatible with a variety of tank mates. In this guide, you’ll find easy freshwater fish pairings perfect for 10, 15, or 20-gallon aquariums—ideal sizes for first-time setups. These combinations feature vibrant schooling species like neon tetras and harlequin rasboras, friendly livebearers such as guppies and platies, and bottom dwellers like corydoras and kuhli loaches. Whether you’re interested in tropical freshwater fish for beginners or just want a reliable, low-maintenance aquarium fish mix, each pairing is designed to create a balanced and visually appealing community. To help you get started, we’ve also included recommended aquarium gear for beginners at the end of the article, covering the best filters, heaters, lighting, and tank kits by size.

#1 Neon Tetras + Panda Corydoras

Why This Combo Works

Neon tetras offer vibrant, shimmering blue and red hues as they glide gracefully in synchronized schools through the mid-water zone. Their calm temperament makes them ideal companions in a peaceful community setting. Complementing them perfectly, panda corydoras add movement and personality to the bottom of the tank with their playful scavenging and distinct black-and-white markings. These two species share a gentle nature and thrive in similar water conditions, making them a visually balanced and harmonious pairing for any freshwater aquarium.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon innesi) – Qty: 10

• Corydoras Panda (Corydoras panda) – Qty: 6

#2 Zebra Danios + White Cloud Mountain Minnows

Why This Combo Works

Zebra danios and white cloud mountain minnows are both hardy, cold-water fish known for their active schooling behavior and peaceful nature. Zebra danios add bold striping and constant motion to the upper levels, while white clouds bring shimmering silver and red accents to the mid-water zone. Their similar care needs and energetic personalities make them an ideal match for community aquariums. Together, they create a lively, low-maintenance display that’s perfect for aquarists looking for an active and visually engaging freshwater setup.

Tank Size: 15 gallons
Stocking:
• Zebra Danio (Danio rerio) – Qty: 8

• White Cloud Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes) – Qty: 8

#3 Cherry Barbs + Harlequin Rasboras

Why This Combo Works

Cherry barbs contribute vibrant red tones and gentle energy to the mid-water, while harlequin rasboras enhance the scene with their graceful, shimmering schools. Together, these two species form a visually balanced and tranquil aquarium community. Their compatible temperaments and similar swimming zones make them a natural pairing, offering both beauty and peaceful interaction. The contrast between the cherry barbs’ bold coloration and the rasboras’ subtle elegance creates a dynamic yet harmonious aquatic display that’s ideal for aquarists seeking color and calm in one setup.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya) – Qty: 6

• Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) – Qty: 8

#4 Guppies + Platies

Why This Combo Works

Guppies and platies are both colorful, active livebearers that bring nonstop motion and visual appeal to the mid-water zone. With their bright patterns and social temperaments, they coexist peacefully and create a lively, harmonious aquarium environment. Their shared needs and easygoing nature make them an ideal match, especially for aquarists seeking a low-maintenance yet eye-catching freshwater setup. The combination of guppies’ flowing fins and platies’ bold colors results in a balanced display of movement and color, perfect for a vibrant and engaging aquatic community.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) – Qty: 6

• Platy (Xiphophorus maculatus) – Qty: 6

#5 Endler’s Livebearers + Ember Tetras

Why This Combo Works

Endler’s livebearers offer vibrant, darting color near the water’s surface, showcasing brilliant hues in constant motion. Their active yet peaceful nature makes them ideal companions for black neon tetras, whose sleek silver bodies and bold black stripes add sharp contrast and depth in the mid-water zone. Together, these species bring harmony and dynamic energy to the aquarium, with a natural contrast in both color and swimming patterns. Their similar temperaments and size make them highly compatible, resulting in a visually stunning and low-maintenance freshwater setup perfect for aquarists seeking balance, beauty, and lively interaction.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei) – Qty: 8

• Black Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi) – Qty: 8

#6 Honey Gouramis + Dwarf Gouramis

Why This Combo Works

Honey gouramis and dwarf gouramis offer peaceful, colorful charm with their slow, gliding movements and unique labyrinth breathing. These two species coexist well when given adequate space and hiding spots, avoiding territorial tension while adding serene beauty to the mid-water zone. Their subtle yet vibrant hues—from golden yellows to shimmering blues—bring warmth and contrast to a planted community setup. Both are calm by nature and interact gently with tank mates, making them ideal for aquarists seeking a visually soothing and harmonious freshwater aquarium filled with personality and soft, flowing motion.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Honey Gourami (Trichogaster chuna) – Qty: 3

• Dwarf Gourami (Trichogaster lalius) – Qty: 3

#7 X-Ray Tetras + Peppered Corydoras

Why This Combo Works

X-ray tetras bring translucent beauty and steady schooling behavior to the mid-water level, with subtle yellow, black, and silver tones that shimmer under aquarium lighting. Peppered corydoras add gentle, bottom-dwelling motion with their spotted pattern and peaceful temperament, often seen gliding in small groups across the substrate. Both species are calm, hardy, and highly social, making them ideal companions in a well-balanced freshwater community. Their contrasting positions in the water column and complementary behaviors create a dynamic yet serene display.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• X-ray Tetra (Pristella maxillaris) – Qty: 9

• Peppered Corydoras (Corydoras paleatus) – Qty: 6

#8 Black Neon Tetras + Lemon Tetras

Why This Combo Works

Black neon tetras and lemon tetras make an eye-catching pairing, each bringing distinct coloration and synchronized movement to the mid-water column. Black neons offer bold, deep-toned stripes that shimmer subtly under aquarium lighting, while lemon tetras bring a soft, citrus hue that stands out beautifully against darker backdrops. Their similar size, gentle temperament, and active schooling behavior allow them to coexist seamlessly. Together, they create a peaceful and visually balanced community, with constant motion and vibrant contrast that enhances the overall appeal of any planted or aquascaped freshwater setup.

Tank Size: 15 gallons
Stocking:
• Black Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi) – Qty: 8

• Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) – Qty: 8

#9 Kuhli Loaches + Pygmy Corydoras

Why This Combo Works

Kuhli loaches and pygmy corydoras form a captivating bottom-dwelling duo, each bringing its own charm to the substrate. Kuhli loaches, with their eel-like bodies and shy, burrowing habits, are most active during the evening, emerging to explore and scavenge. Pygmy corydoras, in contrast, are more social and visible throughout the day, often darting in small groups across the lower levels. Together, they create a lively yet low-maintenance environment full of motion and interaction. Their peaceful temperaments and shared space at the bottom make them excellent tank mates, offering constant activity without conflict—a perfect match for aquarists seeking a dynamic but harmonious freshwater setup.

Tank Size: 15 gallons
Stocking:
• Kuhli Loach (Pangio kuhlii) – Qty: 5

• Pygmy Corydoras (Corydoras pygmaeus) – Qty: 6

#10 Pearl Gouramis + Zebra Danios

Why This Combo Works

Pearl gouramis bring an air of grace and refinement to the mid-water zone, with their shimmering scales, delicate fins, and peaceful demeanor. Their slow, deliberate movements contrast beautifully with the lively energy of zebra danios, which dart playfully near the surface in tight-knit schools. This pairing balances elegance with excitement, as both species are hardy, adaptable, and known for getting along well in social freshwater setups. The combination of calm gliding and constant motion adds visual interest while maintaining harmony, making them ideal companions for a vibrant and cooperative aquatic community.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri) – Qty: 3

• Zebra Danio (Danio rerio) – Qty: 8

#11 Bolivian Ram Cichlids + Harlequin Rasboras

Why This Combo Works

Bolivian ram cichlids and harlequin rasboras complement each other beautifully in a peaceful freshwater setup. Bolivian rams offer a calm, inquisitive presence as they glide through the mid-levels, displaying soft yellows, blues, and subtle iridescence that add vibrant charm without aggression. Harlequin rasboras contribute elegant, coordinated movement with their tight schooling behavior and distinctive black wedge markings. Both species are known for their gentle temperaments and thrive in similar water conditions, making them a natural match. Together, they create a visually balanced, low-conflict community where color, motion, and tranquility come together in a captivating aquatic scene.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Bolivian Ram Cichlid (Mikrogeophagus altispinosus) – Qty: 2

• Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) – Qty: 8

#12 Celestial Pearl Danios + Chili Rasboras

Why This Combo Works

Celestial pearl danios and chili rasboras make an ideal pairing for aquarists seeking both visual harmony and peaceful behavior. Celestial pearl danios, known for their shimmering, galaxy-like speckled bodies, tend to school calmly in the middle levels of the aquarium, adding a graceful, gliding motion to the tank. Chili rasboras, with their bold red hues and petite size, provide a striking contrast as they dart playfully in loosely knit groups. Both species are peaceful, similarly sized, and enjoy comparable water parameters, which makes them highly compatible. Their combined presence results in a dynamic and colorful display, offering gentle movement and natural beauty without territorial tension.

Tank Size: 10 gallons
Stocking:
• Celestial Pearl Danio (Danio margaritatus) – Qty: 8

• Chili Rasbora (Boraras brigittae) – Qty: 10

#13 Honey Gouramis + Black Neon Tetras

Why This Combo Works

Honey gouramis bring a soft, golden glow and peaceful demeanor to the mid-water zone, moving with slow, deliberate grace that enhances the tank’s tranquility. Black neon tetras contrast beautifully with their sleek, dark bodies and shimmering stripes, schooling calmly and adding rhythmic movement. Both species share a gentle temperament and thrive in similar conditions, making them an ideal match for aquarists seeking a serene, visually balanced freshwater aquarium.

Tank Size: 15 gallons
Stocking:
• Honey Gourami (Trichogaster chuna) – Qty: 3

• Black Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi) – Qty: 8

#14 Swordtails + Lemon Tetras

Why This Combo Works

Swordtails add vibrant energy with their bold colors and signature trailing tails, bringing constant motion and visual interest to the mid-water zone. Lemon tetras enhance the display with their soft yellow hue and peaceful schooling behavior, offering a gentle contrast that brightens the entire aquarium. Together, these species create a harmonious freshwater community with a cheerful blend of color, movement, and compatibility—ideal for aquarists looking to cultivate an active yet well-balanced environment.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Swordtail (Xiphophorus hellerii) – Qty: 5

• Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) – Qty: 8

#15 Cherry Barbs + Pygmy Corydoras

Why This Combo Works

Cherry barbs bring vibrant red hues and energetic schooling to the mid-water, adding bold color and lively movement throughout the tank. Complementing their activity, pygmy corydoras contribute playful bottom-dwelling behavior, constantly exploring and interacting with the substrate. Together, these species create a dynamic and engaging environment that balances activity at multiple levels. This combination not only enhances the visual appeal but also promotes a healthy, interactive community in a compact freshwater setup.

Tank Size: 15 gallons
Stocking:
• Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya) – Qty: 6

• Pygmy Corydoras (Corydoras pygmaeus) – Qty: 6

#16 Pearl Gouramis + Harlequin Rasboras

Why This Combo Works

Pearl gouramis bring a graceful and elegant presence to the mid-water levels, showcasing their beautiful colors and unique labyrinth breathing ability. Their calm demeanor pairs well with the gentle activity of harlequin rasboras, which add delicate, coordinated schooling that livens up the aquarium. Together, these species create a peaceful and harmonious environment that fosters a true community tank feel. This combination offers both visual appeal and balanced behavior, making it perfect for hobbyists seeking a serene freshwater setup.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Pearl Gourami (Trichogaster leeri) – Qty: 3

• Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) – Qty: 8

#17 Bolivian Ram Cichlids + Chili Rasboras

Why This Combo Works

Bolivian ram cichlids provide a gentle, colorful presence in the mid-water zone, complementing the vibrant red hues of chili rasboras swimming in the upper levels. This harmonious combination creates a peaceful and visually striking community aquarium perfect for hobbyists seeking calm and beauty in their freshwater tanks.

Tank Size: 20 gallons
Stocking:
• Bolivian Ram Cichlid (Mikrogeophagus altispinosus) – Qty: 2

• Chili Rasbora (Boraras brigittae) – Qty: 10

#18 Lemon Tetras + Nerite Snails

Why This Combo Works

Lemon tetras bring vibrant yellow schooling that enlivens the mid-water range of the aquarium with their energetic movement and cheerful color. Meanwhile, zebra snails, aka nerite snails, contribute effective algae control, helping to maintain a clean and healthy environment. Together, this combination offers a visually appealing and low-maintenance aquarium setup that balances lively activity with practical tank care, perfect for aquarists seeking both beauty and ease.

Tank Size: 10 gallons
Stocking:
• Lemon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) – Qty: 8

• Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis) – Qty: 2

#19 Kuhli Loaches + Cherry Shrimp

Why This Combo Works

Kuhli loaches offer intriguing, eel-like movement and shy, nocturnal behavior that brings life to the bottom of the aquarium, often emerging in groups to explore during feeding times. Cherry shrimp add a vivid pop of red and serve as efficient scavengers, helping to keep the substrate clean by consuming leftover food and algae. This pairing creates a low-maintenance, visually captivating freshwater setup that combines functional tank-cleaning with quiet, natural beauty—ideal for aquarists who enjoy observing subtle activity and ecological balance.

Tank Size: 15 gallons
Stocking:
• Kuhli Loach (Pangio kuhlii) – Qty: 5

• Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) – Qty: 6

#20 Pygmy Corydoras + Amano Shrimp

Why This Combo Works

Pygmy corydoras bring lively bottom-dwelling behavior, constantly exploring and interacting in small groups, which adds an animated and endearing touch to any freshwater setup. Amano shrimp, known for their impressive algae-eating abilities, help maintain a cleaner environment while adding subtle, graceful movement to the tank. Together, these peaceful species create a low-maintenance, visually engaging aquarium with natural balance—perfect for beginners seeking a charming and functional aquatic community.

Tank Size: 10 gallons
Stocking:
• Pygmy Corydoras (Corydoras pygmaeus) – Qty: 6

• Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata) – Qty: 4

Recommended Gear by Tank Size

10-Gallon Setups

• Aquarium:
o Fluval Spec V 5-Gallon Aquarium Kit – Includes lighting, heater, and filter for a complete nano setup ideal for shrimp or fish needing calm water.
o Clear Glass Aquarium 10 Gallon – Offers a sturdy, transparent base for a custom setup with separate components.
• Lighting:
o Aqueon LED Clip-On Light – Easily mounts on framed or frameless aquariums using the versatile mounting screw.
o Nicrew ClassicLED Light – Delivers energy-efficient illumination and optimized spectrum for healthy growth of plants.
• Heater:
o Eheim Jager Heater 25W – Ensures stable warmth for a healthy nano tank, ideal for tropical species like tetras (74-80°F).
o hygger Mini Submersible Heater 50W – Has safety features such as low water level shutdown and overheat protection. https://amzn.to/4jQkvLm
• Filter:
o Tetra Whisper Power Filter – Keeps water pristine with minimal noise, suitable for calm water needs of species like chili rasboras.
o Fluval C2 Power Filter – Offers gentle filtration for small tanks, perfect for delicate fish like ember tetras.

15-Gallon Setups

• Aquarium:
o Ultra Clear Rimless Tank 15 Gallon – High quality low iron glass makes the aquarium more crystal clear.

• Lighting:
o Nicrew ClassicLED Light – Delivers energy-efficient illumination and optimized spectrum for healthy growth of plants.
o Aqueon LED Clip-On Light – Easily mounts on framed or frameless aquariums using the versatile mounting screw.
• Heater:
o Fluval M 50-Watt Submersible Heater – The easy-to-adjust temperature control dial ensures a stable aquatic environment for your fish and plants.
o Orlushy Submersible Heater 100W – Ensures optimal tropical temperatures with reliable performance, suitable for gouramis (76-82°F).
• Filter:
o Tetra Whisper EX Silent Multi-Stage – Provides silent, multi-stage filtration for clear, clean water.
o Fluval C2 Power Filter – Provides extensive mechanical, biological and chemical filtration through a 5-step cleaning process.

20-Gallon Setups

• Aquarium:
o Ultra Clear Rimless Tank 20 Gallon – Offers a sturdy, transparent base for a custom setup.
• Lighting:
o Aqueon LED Clip-On Light – Easily mounts on framed or frameless aquariums using the versatile mounting screw.
o Nicrew ClassicLED Light – Delivers energy-efficient illumination and optimized spectrum for healthy growth of plants.
• Heater:
o Aqueon Adjustable PRO Aquarium Heater 50W – Shatterproof and nearly indestructible. Auto Shut-Off when over-heats, resets when it cools down.
o Aqueon Submersible Aquarium Heater 50 Watts – Fully submersible, auto shut-off when overheats, resets when cools down.
• Filter:
o Fluval 107 Canister Filter – Provides advanced filtration options for superior water quality.
o Fluval C2 Power Filter – Provides extensive mechanical, biological and chemical filtration through a 5-step cleaning process.

General Accessories

Substrate/Plants:

o CaribSea Eco-Complete Planted Substrate – Preferred by aquarists for a reduced maintenance planted aquarium. Supplies a nutrient-rich base for live plants and safe for bottom dwellers.
o Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) – Thrives with minimal care, offering natural cover and oxygen, ideal for tanks with a pH of 6.0-7.5.
o Anubias Nana (Anubias barteri var. nana) – Grows slowly in low light with minimal maintenance, providing sturdy cover and thriving in pH 6.0-7.5.
o Amazon Sword (Echinodorus bleheri) – Adapts easily to various conditions, adding lush vertical growth. Very hardy plant ideal for beginners.
o Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) – Floats or plants effortlessly, offering shade and oxygen while tolerating a wide pH range of 6.0-7.5.

Food:

o TetraMin Tropical Flakes – Delivers balanced daily nutrition for a variety of fish, supporting growth at 74-80°F.
o Hikari Micro Pellets – Provides small, nutrient-rich food ideal for tetras, swordtails, guppies, danios and more.
o Hikari Tropical Shrimp Cuisine Fish Food – Includes vegetable matter herbivorous shrimp prefer like seaweed and spirulina.
o Fluval Bug Bites Bottom Feeder Fish Food – Formulated with nutrient-rich insect larvae ideal for bottom-feeders like corydoras and loaches.

Water Conditioner:

o API Stress Coat – Removes chlorine and reduces fish stress. Use when adding or changing water, when adding new fish and when fish are sick or injured.
o Seachem Prime – Permanently removes chlorine and chloramine from tap water. Makes bio-filter more effective at removing ammonia, nitrite, & nitrate.

Biological Enhancer:

o Fluval Cycle – Infused with a powerful team of beneficial bacteria that immediately inoculates aquarium water.
o API Quick Start Freshwater Nitrifying Bacteria – Jumpstarts biological filtration for new setups, maintaining nitrate levels below 20 ppm.
Notes
• For 10-gallon setups with shrimp (e.g., Combos #19, #20), the Fluval Spec V Kit is recommended for its all-in-one convenience and calm water flow.
• Canister filters like the Fluval 107 are ideal for 20-gallon tanks needing robust filtration, while HOB filters (e.g., Aqueon QuietFlow 30 or Fluval C2) are better suited for fish requiring calmer flow, such as Combos #3 (Cherry Barbs + Harlequin Rasboras) and #11 (Bolivian Ram Cichlids + Harlequin Rasboras).
• Adjust gear based on species-specific needs: use heaters set to 74-80°F for tetras, 72-78°F for livebearers, and 76-82°F for gouramis; maintain pH between 6.0-7.5 and ammonia below 0.25 ppm for optimal health.

Understanding the Different Types of Cichlid

The family Cichlidae is one of the largest families of tropical fish. There are roughly 1,500 known species of cichlid but biologists believe this to be only half the number of species in existence. Cichlids exhibit many different colors, sizes, shapes, and behaviors. This variety is why cichlids are a favorite of many aquarium hobbyists around the world…

The cichlid family is one of the largest families of freshwater tropical fish and arguably one of the most popular. This article will give you a brief introduction to the different types of cichlid.

The family Cichlidae is one of the largest families of tropical fish. There are nearly 1,500 known species of cichlid but biologists believe this to be only half the number of species in existence. Size, color, shape and behavior may vary among the different species – this variety is why cichlids are a favorite of many aquarium hobbyists. Certain species of cichlid like Oscars have been known to develop a sort of personality and others, such as the discus fish, are widely recognized as some of the most beautiful freshwater aquarium fishes. If you plan to cultivate a cichlid tank it is wise to learn the basics about this family of fishes and to research the particular species you hope to raise in order to ensure that you will be able to provide for their needs. Learning about cichlids begins with understanding the different groups into which the various species fall.

African Cichlids

There are four subcategories of African cichlids: Lake Malawi cichlids, Lake Tanganyika cichlids, Lake Victoria cichlids and other African cichlids. Lake Malawi cichlids account for about eight hundred of the known species of cichlids and African cichlids are often cited as being some of the most colorful. Some Lake Malawi cichlids, like Peacock cichlids, are known for their brilliant combinations of blue, red, and yellow patterns. Another large group of cichlids endemic to Lake Malawi is the Mbuna group which includes a variety of aggressive cichlids which can be identified by their blue and black bar patterns.

Lake Tanganyika is one of the deepest lakes in the world and it is home to almost two hundred and fifty varieties of cichlid. Some of the species that make their home in Lake Tanganyika include the Daffodil cichlid, the Masked cichlid and the Frontosa cichlid which is characterized by its bulbous forehead. The Lake Victoria varieties of cichlid are not as well-known as the Lake Tanganyika and Lake Malawi species and, due to predation and human activity, many species are dying out.

New World Cichlids

The cichlids of Central and North America are often referred to as New World cichlids. In their native habitat, Central American cichlids are found in a variety of waterways. Most of the Central American cichlids belong to a group called Cichlasomines which are known for their brilliant coloration as well as their aggressive behaviors. Most cichlids in this group can grow up to eight inches in length but some remain small, around four or five inches. Perhaps the most popular New World cichlids is the Jack Dempsey cichlid, or Rocio Octofasciata. These cichlids can be very aggressive toward other fish so it is best to keep them in a tank with their own species. They can also grow up to ten inches in length so it is important to avoid keeping them in an overcrowded tank. The Texas cichlid, another New World cichlid, is native to the Rio Grande area around Texas and Mexico and it too can be extremely aggressive.

South American Cichlids

South American cichlids are generally found in black water regions where the water is very acidic. In order for South American cichlids to thrive in captivity, these conditions must be replicated. Angelfish are one of the most popular, or at least the most easily recognized, types of South American cichlids. Many varieties of angelfish are sold in pet stores and, like other popular South American cichlids, require excellent water quality and a low current in order to thrive.

Other popular South American cichlids include the Oscar and the Discus fish. Discus fish are unique among cichlids because they are very social – they are one of the few schooling varieties of cichlid. Oscar cichlids are known to be very intelligent fish and many of them develop a personality. These fish require a great deal of attention from their owners in addition to a great deal of space. Oscars can grow up to twelve inches in length and, thus, should be kept in at least a one hundred gallon aquarium.

Tips for Understanding Cichlids

The most important thing you need to know about cichlids is that they should not be kept in a community tank. Many species of cichlid can be quite aggressive and should be kept singly or only in very large tanks with one or two other cichlids. It is also important to note that cichlids from the different groups should not be mixed in a tank. It is not the aggression of these fishes which makes this true so much as the fact that the different groups of cichlids come from very disparate environments – the preferred water conditions for one type of cichlid may not be ideal for another type. If you hope to cultivate a healthy cichlid tank it is wise to perform ample research about cichlids in general as well as the particular species you are considering. Talk with aquarists experienced at keeping cichlids to gain valuable insight – doing so will very likely save you not only time and frustration but unnecessary expense as well. Educating yourself so that you are well-equipped with the proper knowledge regarding the habits and needs of your cichlids is a critical first step to successfully keeping these colorful and fascinating fish.

5 Freshwater Invertebrates For The Aquarium

Freshwater aquarium invertebrates provide you, the aquarist, with a great automatic clean up crew for the home aquarium. Learn how freshwater invertebrates can save you time with aquarium maintenance!

When you first start out in the freshwater aquarium hobby, you may not realize that your selection of tank inhabitants can include freshwater aquarium invertebrates and don’t need to only be limited to fish. A variety of freshwater invertebrates are also available and these creatures can perform several helpful functions in your tank. Invertebrates like snails, shrimp, crayfish and crabs are scavengers that can help rid your tank of built-up fish food and other waste products, thus making your tank a healthier environment for your fish. If are looking for a simple way to keep your tank clean, consider adding a freshwater invertebrate to your tank.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Keeping Invertebrates

The main benefit of keeping invertebrates in your tank is that they will help to control the build-up of detritus in your aquarium. Detritus is a term that refers to organic waste and uneaten fish food that builds up in your aquarium substrate, affecting the water quality in your tank. Invertebrates are often referred by aquarium hobbyists as a sort of “cleanup crew” because they naturally feed on these materials, thus safely removing them from your tank. Another benefit of freshwater invertebrates is that many of them are quite colorful and can add to the overall appearance of your tank. Some lobsters, for example, come in bright blue colors and some aquarium snails have shells that form in unique shapes.

One of the drawbacks to freshwater invertebrates is that some of them can be difficult to keep. Many invertebrates are sensitive to water quality and may not be able to tolerate medications like malachite green if you add them to your aquarium. In some cases, invertebrates are also likely to become aggressive. This is especially likely in dirty tanks and in tanks where the invertebrates do not have access to an adequate supply of food. Additionally, certain species of ornamental aquarium snails may damage live plants so they should be used with caution in planted tanks.

Types of Freshwater Aquarium Invertebrates

Snails – Freshwater aquarium snails come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Some of the more popular species of freshwater snail include the Nerita Snail, Gold Rabbit Snail, Japanese Trapdoor Snail and the Assassin Snail. These invertebrates are ideal for controlling algae in the home aquarium and they will also scavenge for detritus and leftover fish food. In order to ensure that your snails have plenty to eat, supplement their diets with flake or pellet foods. Freshwater aquarium snails typically do not grow larger than 3 inches and most species are unlikely to overpopulate. In the event that you do have an overly abundant snail population, however, the Assassin Snail can be a useful invertebrate because it feeds on other snails. I use Nerite Snails in my aquariums. In my opinion, these are the best snails for freshwater aquariums. They’re very efficient cleaners and will not re-produce in freshwater so there’s never a problem with overpopulation. You can find a very good selection of Nerite Snails here at a very reasonable price. I usually put in 1 Nerite snail for every 1 – 2 gallons.

Lobsters – Also called crayfish, freshwater aquarium lobsters come in a variety of colors ranging from dull brown to striking blue. Lobsters are peaceful creatures and do not typically bother fish, but they can become very territorial and aggressive if kept with others of their own species. For this reason it is recommended that lobsters be kept singly in tanks no smaller than twenty gallons. Lobsters prefer a tank environment with plenty of rocks and plants to use as cover. These invertebrates are scavengers, likely to eat any food that sinks to the bottom of the tank. In order to maintain their health, however, their diet should be supplemented with an appropriate crayfish food such as sinking pellets and dried algae. Crayfish can climb out of the aquarium so be sure to install a tight fitting fish tank hood!

Shrimp – In the freshwater aquarium, shrimp will feed on algae, organic waste and leftover fish food. If you plan to keep multiple shrimp, or if you have a particularly small tank, it may be wise to supplement the diet of these invertebrates with quality flake or pellet foods. Freshwater aquarium shrimp come in a variety of colors ranging from transparent, or no color, to bright red or blue – some shrimp are even able to change color. These invertebrates should be kept in tanks with peaceful fish where they have plenty of places to hide. Different species of shrimp grow to different sizes at maturity but, for the most part, these invertebrates remain small – generally less than 2 inches long. Here’s a good source for freshwater aquarium shrimp.

Crabs – The most popular type of crab for freshwater aquariums is the mini crab, also known as the fiddler crab. These creatures are very hardy creatures which makes them relatively easy to care for. Mini crabs require some salt in their water in order to thrive because they originate from the brackish waters of lagoons and swamps. In the home aquarium, crabs will scavenge for detritus and uneaten fish food, though it is wise to supplement their diets with fresh or freeze-dried foods like bloodworms and brine shrimp. The ideal tank for a crab will have plenty of rocks and driftwood to offer hiding places as well as things for the crabs to climb. One of the most important things to realize about these invertebrates is that they are semi-terrestrial – they need to be able to access dry land.

Clams – Freshwater clams, an often overlooked freshwater invertebrate for the home aquarium, help to keep aquarium water clean by filtering out detritus and uneaten fish food from the water column. These invertebrates may also help to lower nitrate levels. Clams typically like to bury themselves in substrate, but if you watch closely you may be able to see their siphon protruding from the substrate. While these invertebrates garner most of their required nutrients from the water itself, you can supplement their diets with quality invertebrate food. When housing clams in your aquarium, avoid using any copper-based medications because clams are unable to tolerate them and could die if exposed.

Additional Tips for Freshwater Aquarium Invertebrates

When selecting an invertebrate for your aquarium, take the size of your aquarium and the adult size of the invertebrates you are considering into account. You should also keep in mind that some freshwater invertebrates, like lobsters, are territorial and should be kept singly or in large aquariums. Before you bring an invertebrate home, research not only the type of invertebrate, but the particular species, so you will be aware of any precautions you need to take to protect your aquarium fish and to ensure that you are able to properly care for the creature.

While invertebrates may feed largely on the detritus in your aquarium this does not mean that you will not need to supplement their diets. In small tanks, and tanks with multiple invertebrates, the food supply in the tank may be fairly limited. In order to keep your invertebrates healthy you will need to care for them just as you care for your fish – by providing them with a diet that fulfills all their nutritional needs. Most invertebrates are omnivorous and should be offered fresh vegetables and sinking pellets or wafers to supplement their diets. Some freshwater invertebrates, like lobsters, may also feed on the live and frozen foods you offer the fish in your tank.

How To Choose The Right Aquarium Substrate For Your Tank

Aquarium substrate serves a variety of functions in the home aquarium. It’s not just for covering the bottom of your tank. Get valuable tips on choosing the right aquarium substrate and which ones to avoid!

Aquarium substrate serves a variety of functions in the home aquarium beyond simply adding to the overall aesthetic appeal of your tank. While clean substrate will certainly enhance the appearance of your tank, its main purpose is much more important. Because substrate plays such an integral role in the healthy upkeep of your tank it is important to select the right kind. There are many different options to choose from, so rather than simply picking something off the shelf, it is wise to learn a little about the different types of substrate available in order to make an educated decision.

Functions of Aquarium Substrate

While it may seem like the purpose of having aquarium substrate is to cover the bottom of the tank and to provide a rooting medium for aquarium plants, these are only two of the many functions aquarium substrate serves. If you were to leave the bottom of your tank bare, the light reflecting off the glass could irritate your fish. Aggressive fish in particular could become stressed, thinking that their own reflection is actually a rival fish. Aquarium substrate also serves to give your tank a more “natural” look that mimics the native habitat of your fish. If you choose neon-colored gravel this might not be the case, however.

Although the aforementioned points are very important, perhaps the most important function served by aquarium gravel is providing a bed in which colonies of beneficial bacteria can multiply. Nitrifying bacteria in the home aquarium break down toxins like ammonia into nitrites then nitrates, a process referred to as the nitrogen cycle. While these bacteria may inhabit your tank filter, as well as some tank surfaces, the substrate is where they are most heavily concentrated. In addition to housing these bacteria, substrate also serves as a rooting medium for live aquarium plants. Most aquarium plants must be rooted in order to thrive and certain substrates are formulated to provide the essential nutrients aquarium plants need.

Types of Aquarium Substrate

Gravel – This is the most popular option in aquarium substrate for freshwater fish tanks. Gravel comes in a variety of sizes and colors and is, generally, one of the least expensive types of aquarium substrate. Most aquarium gravel is untreated, so once it has been rinsed thoroughly to remove dirt and dust it can be added to the aquarium without fear of it affecting water parameters. This type of substrate is ideal for harboring colonies of beneficial bacteria but it should be vacuumed regularly to remove built-up waste and uneaten fish food. In fish-only tanks, gravel can be used as the sole substrate, but in planted tanks it is recommended only as a top layer over some kind of fertilizer or fortified substrate formulated to encourage aquarium plant growth.

Sand – The second most popular type of substrate for fish-only tanks, sand also comes in a variety of colors and sizes. If you have a quality filtration system installed, sand can actually be cleaner than gravel because, once it has compacted, organic waste and food particles will not be able to penetrate the surface. The main problem hobbyists encounter when using sand as a substrate is that it can get sucked up the intake tube of the filter. A simple adjustment to the length of the tube can remedy this situation. Some aquarists prefer sand over gravel because it provides a more natural-looking base for the aquarium and it is also the preferred substrate for many bottom dwellers.

Fertilizers – There are a number of fertilizers that can be used as a lower level of substrate in planted aquariums. These substrates are formulated to provide live aquarium plants with the nutrients they need in order to grow. Fluorite is a kind of lightweight, clay gravel that can be mixed with sand or regular aquarium gravel. Laterite is another type of clay, one that contains high levels of iron-oxide which helps to attract and store nutrients where they are easily accessed by plant roots. Vermiculite is a mineral substrate composed of aluminum, iron and magnesium. This substrate attracts and slowly releases nutrients over a long period of time. One of the best options for aquarium substrate is a product called Eco-Complete. It’s packed with over 25 minerals for healthy plant growth and also includes live Heterotrophic bacteria to convert fish waste into food for your plants. An additional bonus is the fact that Eco-Complete doesn’t require rinsing, as most substrates do, before adding it to the aquarium.

Not Recommended – The substrate options for freshwater aquariums are numerous, but there are also several types of substrate that should be avoided. Sea sand, for example, is not safe for use in freshwater aquariums because it may contain impurities as well as living organisms which will pollute tank water as they die off. Crushed corals and aragonite sand are only recommended for use in marine and reef tanks because these substrates have a tendency to raise pH. Peat moss is another type of aquarium substrate and, though it can be used in the freshwater tank, it is generally not recommended. Peat is composed of decaying plant matter which can turn the water a yellowish tan color – this type of substrate is better suited for use in black water or brackish tanks.

Tips for Using Substrate in the Home Aquarium

After you choose the substrate for your tank you need to figure out how much of it you will need. If you plan to use gravel in your tank you will need approximately 7 pounds of gravel per square foot of tank space for a depth of one inch. To find out how much sand you need for your tank, simply multiply the length, width and depth of the area to be filled and divide by twenty to find the number of pounds of sand you need. You can also use the formula of eight pounds of sand per square foot of tank space for a depth of one inch. For fluorite and other fertilizers, you should only need about one pound per gallon of tank capacity.

Before adding any substrate to your aquarium it is wise to rinse it thoroughly in fresh, warm water. Pour the substrate into a large plastic bucket or container and fill the container with water. Swirl the substrate around to release any dirt or dust then pour off the dirty water. Repeat this process several times until the water runs clear. At this point the substrate may be considered safe to add to the aquarium. Do not rinse your substrate in hot water because it could affect the water temperature in your tank. To avoid cracking or otherwise damaging the bottom of your tank when adding the gravel, lay a shallow pan or small bowl in the bottom of the tank and pour the substrate into it. As the container fills with the aquarium substrate, the excess will spill slowly over the sides and you can distribute it carefully by hand.

Simple Tips And Aquarium Advice For Novice Aquarists

Get aquarium advice for selecting your first aquarium, recommended fish for beginners, and common mistakes to avoid. Familiarize yourself with the challenges beforehand for a greater chance of success!

If you are considering becoming an aquarium hobbyist, or if you have already made this choice and are looking for aquarium advice, there are a few things you should keep in mind. Keeping a home aquarium can be a fun and rewarding experience, but it can have its challenges. If you familiarize yourself with these challenges prior to setting up your first tank you will have a greater chance of success. Not only will you have learned what you need to start out in this hobby, but you will also understand some of the common mistakes new hobbyists make and how to avoid the frustration that comes along with them.

Tips for Selecting Your First Aquarium

When it comes to picking out your first aquarium, the major choice you need to make is in regards to the size. Glass and acrylic aquariums range in size from one gallon to over two hundred gallons. As a beginner in this hobby you may be tempted to start out with a small aquarium, thinking that it will be easier to maintain. The truth, however, is that a moderately sized aquarium between twenty and thirty gallons is actually easier to maintain successfully than a tank ten gallons or smaller. Because the water volume in a larger tank is greater, toxins will be more diluted and you will have a little more room for mistakes than you would with a smaller tank. Take this aquarium advice to heart and you’ll save yourself from unnecessary frustration.

In addition to selecting the proper size tank, you should also consider what shape you prefer. At one time aquariums in the standard rectangular shape were the only models widely available, but today they are available in all kinds of shapes. Peruse the selection at your local pet store to decide whether you prefer a flat or rounded front to your aquarium. Smaller aquariums may also be available in novelty shapes such as globes or hexagons. When you are just starting out, however, it is wise to keep things simple with a standard rectangular aquarium with either a flat or rounded front. It will be easier to find a light canopy for a rectangular aquarium with a flat front should you ever need a replacement.

Advice for Purchasing Equipment

The list of essential equipment you will need to keep your aquarium running includes a filter, a submersible heater and lighting. There are three different types of filtration which are important to keeping your tank healthy: mechanical, chemical and biological. Mechanical filtration simply involves the removal of solid waste from the water in your tank. Chemical filtration is generally accomplished through the use of filter media like activated carbon which helps to remove harmful toxins. Biological filtration simply refers to the inclusion of a bio-wheel or some other filter attachment which provides a place for beneficial bacteria to live and multiply. In order to keep your aquarium as healthy as possible it is recommended that you select a filter that incorporates all three methods of filtration. Canister filters are an ideal choice in this regard.

A submersible aquarium heater is necessary in order to maintain a stable temperature in your tank. Selecting an aquarium heater is a much simpler process than choosing a filter. The main thing you need to consider when choosing an aquarium heater is the size of your aquarium and the temperature of the room where the aquarium will be located. You can ask the sales associates at your local pet store for recommendations or look online for reviews of different brands. Once you have chosen a brand, simply select the correct size based on your tank capacity.

The easiest way to incorporate lighting into your tank is to select a hood, or canopy, for your tank that has a built-in light fixture. If you do not have a lid or hood for your tank, you can check your local pet store for aquarium lighting kits that include installation instructions.

Tank Decorating Ideas

When decorating your tank, keep in mind that your fish need places to hide as well as open space for swimming. Rock caves and live plants are the ideal hiding places for fish but do not crowd your tank with these items. If you plan to use a rock cave, place it in the back corner of the tank so as to leave the front of the tank open for swimming space. When installing live or artificial plants in your tank, place the tallest plants in the back and install shorter plants in front of them. Aquarium substrate is available in a variety of shapes and sizes to suit your tastes, so use your imagination when decorating your tank – you do not have to stick with basic gravel or sand. Supplement your design with other decorations like rocks, driftwood and novelty items to complete the look of your tank.

Fish Recommended for New Aquarists

As a new aquarist, it is wise to stock your tank with hardy fish that will be tolerant in the event that you make a mistake. It is also a good idea to select fish that are relatively easy to keep – those which do not have precise requirements for water parameters. Some fish recommended for new hobbyists include Mollies, Swordtails, Guppies, Danios and Tetras. All of these fish are community species, which means that they can coexist peacefully with others of their species as well as other community fish. If you want to start off with something a little more than just the basics, ask one of the professionals at your local pet store for recommendations.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

One of the worst mistakes you can make as a novice aquarist is to be in too big a hurry to stock your tank. After you have filled your tank it could be two weeks or longer until it is ready for fish. Your tank needs to cycle completely before you add fish in order to increase the chances that your fish will thrive. During this cycling process, beneficial bacteria will grow and multiply in your tank and begin the process of converting ammonia, a substance which is toxic to fish, into nitrites and then nitrates, which is harmless in small doses. If you do not give your tank time to cycle before adding fish, they could die of ammonia poisoning. So be patient during this process.

Another common mistake beginners in this hobby make is overstocking the tank. Until you have an understanding of how your tank will be able to handle various biological loads, stick to the rule of one inch of fish per gallon of tank capacity. To determine how many fish you can keep, divide the number of gallons your tank can hold by the adult size of the fish you intend to keep. It is important to use the adult size of your fish when making these calculations because the fish you purchase at the store will probably be juveniles and they will grow. The “one inch of fish per gallon” rule is a very general rule at best. Certain fish, like Goldfish and Oscars, create more waste than others, so stocking requirements will be much lower than this rule would suggest. If in doubt, ask a knowledgable professional at your local fish store.

After selecting and purchasing your fish, do not be tempted to simply dump them into the tank. Not only should you introduce your fish in small groups, but you also need to give each group of fish time to acclimate to the tank. Open the lid of your tank and float the plastic bag containing your fish in the tank for at least 20 – 30 minutes. During this time the water in the bag will be gently warmed or cooled by the water in the tank so they are approximately the same temperature. This will prevent your fish from experiencing a temperature shock when you add them to the tank. If you plan to keep multiple species of fish, wait at least a few days between adding new species so the fish in the tank have time to acclimate and the tank itself has time to adjust to the increased biological load.

Still have questions? Some of the best knowledge needed for a successful aquarium will come from talking to other aquarium owners. Experienced aquarists are an excellent source for valuable aquarium advice, so take the time to interact and learn from their mistakes!

Tropical Fish Compatibility – Tips You Need To Know

Even if you only keep community fish in your tank you may occasionally find that one of your fish is causing trouble for the others. It is always a good idea to provide your fish with places to…

Tropical fish compatibility is often overlooked by the novice aquarist. By learning which tropical fish are compatible you’ll be better equipped to have a successful aquarium!

You do not need to be an animal expert to know that putting a mouse in a cage with a python is a bad idea, unless the mouse is intended to be the python’s next meal – and the same model applies to tropical fish! Some species of fish are more aggressive and predatory than others and some fish have a naturaly calm temperament which makes them ideal for a community tank. Before you select the fish for your aquarium, brush up on the basics of tropical fish compatibility so you can be sure that the fish you choose to stock your tank will be able to coexist peacefully.

Categories of Tropical Fish

Species of freshwater tropical fish can be divided into three categories based on their ability to get along with other fish. Community fish is the largest of these. Many of the smaller species of tropical fish including Danios, Guppies, Swordtails, Platies, Tetras and Mollies belong to this category. These fish generally do not grow much larger than two to three inches and thrive best when kept with at least three to five of their own species. These fish tend to get along well with other community fish and, because of their diminutive size, can be kept in smaller tanks. If you’re starting your first tank and want smaller community fish I would recommend going with at least a 20 gallon. Here’s a good 20 gallon kit to start with.

Semi-aggressive species like Gouramis, Barbs, Eels, Sharks and Loaches make up the second category of tropical fish. These species tend to grow larger than most community fish and, thus, should be kept in tanks no smaller than 29 gallons in capacity. The species belonging to this category, especially the males, may display aggression toward other fish in the tank and often become territorial. If you choose to keep semi-aggressive fish in your tank, it is wise to balance out the tank with a number of peaceful community fish. When mixing community fish with semi-aggressive species, try to avoid any major size differences or the larger semi-aggressive species may bully your smaller community fish.

The third category of tropical freshwater fish is made up of the large, very aggressive species. Cichlids and Oscars are the main species belonging to this category, though large Plecostomus and other Catfish can also be quite aggressive. Very aggressive fish cannot be mixed with community fish and may not even do well with semi-aggressive species if there is a major size difference between the two. Aggressive species of fish are not recommended for novice aquarists because they often have specific tank requirements that beginners in the hobby are not equipped to provide. Cichlids, for example, require very large tanks and some types of Cichlid cannot be kept in a tank with any other fish.

How to Mix Different Breeds Safely

When selecting the fish for your aquarium, it is always a good idea to avoid keeping more than one male of a species in the tank together. For small community fish like Guppies, Danios and Tetras this may not be much of an issue, but it will be for semi-aggressive and aggressive species like Gouramis and Cichlids. Even if these fish appear to be getting along at first, it may only be a matter of time until one male of the species establishes dominance over the other. Once this happens, the weaker male will become stressed and may stop eating or fall ill. If you do not remove one of the males from the tank, the weaker one could eventually die.

To prevent situations like this from arising, you must make a choice between maintaining a community tank or limiting the number of fish you have in your tank to avoid problems. If you choose to keep a community tank you can still include a few semi-aggressive fish provided you do not keep more than one male of any species. Keep the adult size of the fish in mind as well because even semi-aggressive fish may eat small community fish.

Tips for Keeping Peace in Your Aquarium

Even if you only keep community fish in your tank you may occasionally find that one of your fish is causing trouble for the others. It is always a good idea to provide your fish with places to hide in the event that one of the species becomes aggressive or in case your fish simply need a place to rest. Live or plastic aquarium plants are a simple way to provide cover for fish that need to hide for a while. Rock caves, large shells and even overturned clay pots can also serve as hiding places for fish. If your fish have a place to go when they need a break they will be happier and healthier in the long run. A fish that becomes stressed as a result of an aggressive tank mate is likely to fall ill and may spread disease to the other tank inhabitants.

Another simple way to avoid problems with tropical fish compatibility is to be intentional about the order in which you introduce your fish into the tank. If you dump all of your fish into the tank at once it could become stressful and none of your fish will do well. Introduce all of one species to the tank at once and give each group time to adjust to the tank before you add more fish. While community fish are generally placid, some species like Danios and Tetras may become nippy toward long-finned species like Angelfish unless you introduce the long-finned species to the tank first. After adding fish to your tank, observe them for a few days to be sure none of them are showing signs of aggression or excessive stress. If one of your freshwater tropical fish is becoming particularly aggressive it may be wise to remove it from the tank before it causes problems.

10 Tropical Fish Species Every Beginning Aquarist Should Know

These colorful freshwater tropical fish species are some of the best freshwater aquarium fish choices for the beginning aquarist! Choosing the wrong fish is a mistake you don’t need to make. Learn which tropical fish species are the easiest to keep!

When it comes to stocking your first aquarium with tropical fish, it is wise to take things slow. If you try to rush into your new hobby, or take on too many challenges too quickly, you may end up making mistakes that could cost your fish their lives. This being said, the best way to go is to ease your way into the hobby by stocking your first tank with species of fish that are “easy” to keep. These species are typically capable of tolerating a variety of tank conditions and may provide you with a buffer against the mistakes you are likely to make as a novice aquarist. If you stock your tank with delicate species, even the smallest change in water quality could be deadly. Once you have mastered the basics of freshwater fishkeeping and have gained some experience in the hobby, you’ll feel more confident to move on to more challenging species of fish.

Small Freshwater Fish Breeds

If you are looking for species of tropical fish that are relatively easy to maintain, you will find many choices among the small breeds of community fish. Because they are small, these fish take up less room in the tank, which means that you can mix and match a variety of species if you choose. Most of these species are schooling fish that should be kept in groups of at least three of their own species, though most species will be more comfortable in groups of five or more.

Guppies: The Fantail Guppy is especially popular among novice aquarists because they are colorful fish that do not require a lot of effort to maintain. These fish are very tolerant of many water conditions and can be kept in either small or large aquariums. Guppies make great community fish and because they remain small, they will not put your tank at risk for overcrowding. Because Guppies are schooling fish it is wise to keep them in groups of 5 or more. If you want to avoid having an overflow of baby Guppies, however, it is wise to stock your tank with only one sex.

Mollies: Though often recommended as freshwater community fish to beginning aquarium hobbyists, Black Mollies tend to do better when kept in slightly brackish conditions. These fish are best kept in planted tanks with some salt content – about one teaspoon of salt per gallon is recommended. Black Mollies produce a great deal of waste when fed properly, so adequate filtration is essential to help maintain acceptable water quality.The Molly is a peaceful breed of community fish that can serve multiple purposes in your tank. Mollies are available in a wide range of colors and patterns so they can help to enhance the aesthetic appearance of your tank. Additionally, Mollies can serve as algae eaters in your tank, picking bits of algae off your live plants and tank decorations. These fish will eat both live foods and flake foods and, if well cared for, can live up to two years. Like the Guppy, Mollies are also likely to breed without much effort on the part of the hobbyist, so if you want to avoid having to raise Molly fry, limit your tank to female Mollies.

Neon Tetras: While most breeds of Tetra are relatively easy to maintain, the Neon Tetra is one of the most popular fish for beginners. These fish are easy to keep and, if treated properly, can live up to ten years. Like most Tetras, Neon Tetras are best kept in groups of at least three to five of their own species and get along well with other community fish. For a more dramatic and eye-catching display consider keeping a school of 15 – 18 in a densely planted tank with open areas for swimming. If you are looking for a cool freshwater fish species that will add vibrant color to your tank, the blue and red coloration of Neon Tetras is and excellent choice!

Danios: There are four well-known varieties of Danio – the Zebra Danio, the Leopard Danio, and the long-finned variety of each breed. These little fish are very active swimmers and their silver and blue bodies shine as they zip around the tank. Because they are so active, it is imperative that you provide Danios with adequate tank space so they have room to swim. Like Guppies, Danios are tolerant of a variety of water conditions and they can live up to five years if properly cared for. This species is also known for being enthusiastic feeders, likely to thrive on just about any commercial fish food you give them. This being true, it is important not to overfeed Danios or to let them eat all of the food designated for other fish in your tank.

Barbs: There are several varieties of Barbs including Tiger Barbs, Ruby Barbs, and Giant Barbs. In general, Barbs are peaceful schooling fish and should be kept in groups of at least five or more to prevent them from developing aggressive behaviors. Though they are typically easy-going, Barbs have been known to nip the fins of some long-finned breeds like Angelfish. Therefore, it is not recommended to mix Barbs with long-finned species such as Angelfish, Gouramis, or Siamese Fighting Fish. Barbs can grow up to three inches, though some species like the Rosy Barb may grow up to six inches, and they can live between one and three years.

Bettas: Betta fish, also called Siamese Fighting Fish, are very popular as starter fish. Known for their vibrant colors and variety of fin types, Bettas are sold not only in pet stores, but can sometimes also be found in grocery stores and home decoration stores. These fish are very hardy – tolerant of a wide range of water temperatures, pH levels and water conditions. However, like all aquarium fish they have an ideal range of water conditions for optimum health. Though they are easy to care for on their own, it’s best not to keep Bettas in a typical community aquarium, especially with other Bettas present. These fish can become very territorial, so if you plan to keep a Betta, keep only one to a tank. If you want to house your Betta with other fish an acceptable setup would be a 10 gallon tank with 3 or more Corydoras Catfish to occupy the bottom level.

Medium and Large Aquarium Fish Breeds

Gouramis: These fish are very hardy, able to tolerate a range of temperatures and various water conditions. Gouramis come in a variety of sizes and colors and they are generally peaceful fish. Some types of Gourami, like the pearl Gourami and dwarf Gourami, are more inclined to be community fish while other breeds, like the kissing pink Gourami and blue Gourami, have a tendency to be semi-aggressive and territorial. In order to avoid conflict, do not keep more than one male Gourami in a tank and provide all of your fish with adequate hiding places. If given enough space, Gouramis can peacefully coexist with other breeds – provided these fish are not so small that the Gouramis might be tempted to eat them.

Plecostomus: The Plecostomus is a well-known type of algae eater. Plecostomus, or plecos, require very little care because the main portion of their diet is made up of algae and uneaten fish food gleaned from the walls of the tank as well as items of tank decor. In small tanks, or tanks stocked with multiple bottom feeders, it may be necessary to supplement your pleco’s diet with algae wafers or spirulina pellets. Under the right conditions, Plecostomus have been known to grow upwards of 10 inches and they can live as long as ten years. As these fish increase in size they may become aggressive and territorial, so only small Plecostomus are recommended for new fishkeepers.

Oscars: The Oscar is a very popular fish among aquarium enthusiasts because these fish have a tendency to develop a personality. Oscars have been known to greet their owners and are prone to begging around mealtimes. However, because this species grows very large, they require a sizeable tank. For a single specimen, a 125 gallon tank is recommended. A regular water maintenance routine is essential since these fish are very messy eaters and produce a lot of waste. If you decide to put an Oscar in your tank you should be prepared for the commitment since Oscars can easily live for more than 10 years. You should also be willing to make the investment in a high-quality filtration system and perform weekly 25% to 50% water changes to maintain a high level of water quality since poor water conditions makes this species especially susceptible to disease.

Angelfish: Angelfish are a hardy species that are very popular in the aquarium hobby with both novice and experienced aquarists. Because of their tall body shape, Angelfish prefer to live in tall tanks rather than wide ones. Though they can become territorial at times, Angelfish are more likely to be bullied by other fish, so they should only be kept with smaller community species. Angelfish are not pick eaters – they will eat flake food as readily as they will consume frozen and freeze dried foods. Some breeds of Angelfish can grow up to six inches and will live between 8 and 10 years.

Tips for Maintaining a Successful Tank

Even though these species of tropical fish are known for being easy to care for, there are still a few precautions you should take to ensure that your tank remains harmonious. Do not overstock your tank – overcrowding will put undue stress on your fish and it could also increase the biological load of your tank to such a high level that the water quality declines. Keep in mind that while most small species of community fish can be kept in a tank together, some larger breeds may be aggressive toward smaller fish. Before you select the fish for your tank, brush up on the basics of tropical fish compatibility. Once you have an understanding of the different categories into which certain species of fish fall you will be more equipped to make the proper species selections for your tank. If you are able to maintain peace in your tank your fish will be that much happier and healthier.

In reality, it should not be difficult to keep most species of freshwater fish. Though some fish could be considered delicate or picky when it comes to their requirements for water parameters, your tank equipment will do most of the maintenance work for you. As long as you have a strong filter to provide water circulation and filtration and a heater to regulate the tank temperature, there is little work that you will actually have to do. Regardless what type of fish you choose to stock your tank, you will still need to perform routine water changes and you should also test the water once a week to keep an eye on the water chemistry. If you do these things and provide your tropical fish with a balanced and varied diet, then you should have no trouble successfully maintaining a perfect, healthy aquarium.

UPDATE:

I frequently get asked about how I keep the water in my tanks looking so crystal clear. The answer is simple….install a quality filter. That’s the first and most important step to a crystal clear tank. I can’t stress enough the importance of having a quality filtration system for your aquarium. There are many choices to consider, but my favorite choice is a well made canister filter such as Eheim or those made by Fluval. And yes, there are other good ones out there as well. If you’ll buy a canister filter that is slightly oversized for your tank capacity you’ll be glad you did.

Tank SetUp – Quick Tips For Setting Up An Aquarium Properly

Proper tank setup is the foundation for a successful aquarium. Learn the easy step by step method for properly setting up your new aquarium.

Proper tank setup of your first aquarium is more than just filling a glass tank with water and adding a few fish. Not only do you need to treat the water but you also need to purchase and install the various pieces of equipment necessary to keep your tank running. The process of setting up a fish tank is not complicated but it can be a confusing process if you have never done it before. In order to ensure success, you’ll need to have the aquarium, an aquarium heater, a filter, substrate (either gravel or sand) for the bottom of the tank, a tank hood with light, live or artificial plants, and any decorations such as rocks, caves, etc. ready before beginning. Once you have made all the necessary preparations, setting up your tank for the first time should only take a few hours.

Selecting a Location for Your Tank

Before you can set up your tank you need to decide where you are going to put it. When selecting a location for your tank you need to consider more than just where the tank will look best. Think of a location for your tank setup where it will be visible, but not in a high-traffic area where it could be accidentally bumped or knocked over. You should also plan to install your aquarium somewhere easily accessible so routine maintenance tasks like water changes will not become a hassle. Another consideration when choosing a tank location is sunlight. Do not set up your tank in direct sunlight or you will find yourself fighting a losing battle with excessive algae growth. It’s also not a good idea to place your aquarium by the primary door used to enter and exit your home because the consistent open and slam of the door will stress the fish. Also, if possible, keep the tank location away from heating and air registers to prevent hot and cold air from constantly blowing on the aquarium.

Preparations Before You Begin

When you first bring your tank home from the store it is important that you rinse it well (with clean water only) to remove any dust or other substances that could potentially harm your fish. It is also wise to rinse all tank decorations including artificial plants, rock caves and novelty décor items. Place your substrate in a large plastic bucket and rinse it well with warm water until the water runs clear. If you skip this process, you may find that once you fill your tank the water is cloudy from the dust and dirt in the substrate. All of this dust and dirt will end up inside that brand new filter! You don’t want that, so take the time to clean the substrate thoroughly.

Steps for Setting Up the Tank

1. Set your tank stand or cabinet in the desired location and place your empty fish tank on top of it. Make sure you’ve chosen a stand that’s sturdy and strong enough to hold the weight of the finished aquarium. Remember that water weighs roughly 8 pounds per gallon. Add to that roughly 1 pound of substrate per gallon capacity of the aquarium plus the weight of the aquarium when empty. A simple 10 gallon aquarium can easily weigh over 100 pounds! Increase the size of the aquarium to 25 gallons and now you’re looking at a total weight of over 250 pounds. So, plan this first step correctly!

2. Use clear tape to attach your aquarium background to the back of the tank. Trim away any excess background that hangs over the edges of the tank. Another option is to spray paint the back of the aquarium with black or dark blue paint to give the rear of the aquarium depth.

3. Rinse your gravel or sand substrate very well to remove all dust. Pour the substrate into the tank. Go slowly and use caution to avoid scratching or cracking the bottom of the aquarium.

4. Fill the tank 2/3 full with warm tap water. If possible, connect a hose to the sink so you can fill the tank directly from the tap. If this is not an option you may need to fill buckets and dump them into the tank. To avoid scattering the substrate you can place a flat rock or an upside down bowl in the middle of the tank and pour the water in directly over top of it.

5. If you’ll be using a hang-on-the-back filter, go ahead and mount it to the back of the tank. For canister filters, now is a good time to install the filter media. Do not plug the filter in yet. Attach a submersible aquarium heater to the tank wall using the suction cups provided. A horizontal installation approximately 3 – 4 inches form the top of the substrate is recommended. This will insure a more even water temperature since cold water is more dense and will “fall” to the bottom of the tank. Do not plug the heater in yet.

6. Place your tank decorations inside the tank in the desired arrangement. If you are using live plants, arrange the tallest plants near the back of the tank and the shorter plants near the front. Avoid placing any plants within 2 – 3 inches of the intake valve for your filter and do not rest any decorations up against the heater.

7. Fill the tank the rest of the way with warm tap water. Follow the directions included with your choice of de-chlorinating solution to determine how much to add for your tank volume.

8. Read the instructions included with your filter to determine whether you need to fill the filter with water first or if you can start it dry. Plug in the filter and check to make sure there are no leaks and that everything is running properly. Most aquarium heaters have a built in thermostat, so go ahead and set the heater to the appropriate temperature. It’s a good idea to wait 10 – 15 minutes after the heater has been submerged in the water before plugging it in.

9. Set up your aquarium lighting. This is fairly straightforward. If you have an aquarium hood, with lighting built in, all you will need to do is install the light bulb, set the hood on top of the aquarium and plug it in. If you are using some other type of lighting, follow the set-up instructions included with the kit.

Other Tips for Tank Setup

Once you have completed the process of your tank setup, there is one more thing you must do before adding fish. The tank must be cycled before it will be safe for fish. The nitrogen cycle is the process through which a harmful substance called ammonia is converted into nitrites and then nitrates. This process is controlled by the beneficial bacteria that live in your tank, but it will take time for the population of these bacteria to grow and for the nitrogen cycle to begin. Be patient as this process could take 2 weeks to a month to complete. It’s not uncommon for it to take even longer than that. However, there are several things you can do to jump-start the nitrogen cycle. One of the quickest and easiest ways is by adding live bacteria directly to the tank with a product called Dr. Tim’s One and Only nitrifying bacteria. This product was developed by aquarium industry pioneer Dr. Tim Hovanec.

After your tank has cycled properly, it will be safe to add fish. However, you should not be in a hurry to add all of your fish at once. Adding too many at once could shock your tank with the increased biological load. Add a few fish at a time, giving each group of fish time to adjust to the tank and the tank itself time to adjust to the new biological load. Keep a close watch on your fish as you add them to be sure they are not displaying signs of stress or illness. To make the transition easier for your fish, try adding a stress relief product to your new tank setup such as Dr. Tim’s First Defense.

Important Advice For Buying Freshwater Tropical Fish

Buying freshwater tropical fish isn’t as straightforward as you may think. Learn important advice that may save you time and money!

It may sound easy to purchase freshwater tropical fish for the aquarium. After all, you just go to the fish store, pick out some pretty fish, buy ’em and take ’em home…right? Well, not exactly! Unless you take a few precautions,and put forth the effort to do a little research before you buy, you may find yourself facing some negative consequences. If you rush the process of purchasing your fish or buy them from a disreputable source your fish could die and you will be faced with the cost of replacing them. In order to avoid this, peruse your options and make an educated decision about where you will buy the fish for your new aquarium.

Where to Buy Aquarium Fish

When it comes to purchasing fish for your aquarium you may be overwhelmed by the large number of options. There are the large chain pet stores as well as the local, family-owned pet stores that offer a selection of aquarium fish. It is also possible to order fish directly from a breeder or to purchase them online from an aquarium supply company. All of these options have their associated advantages and disadvantages so the only way to make the right choice is to research the options and decide which suits you best.

Online versus In-Store

The main advantage of purchasing your fish in-store is that you can actually see and observe the fish for yourself before you buy. While this does not guarantee that the fish you bring home will be completely healthy, you will at least have some control over the selection of your fish. When purchasing from an online retailer or breeder you do not have the luxury of choosing the exact fish you want. While this is considered a disadvantage to some aquarium hobbyists, the fish you receive from a breeder may actually be healthier than those you might buy from a pet store. The fish in the pet store may already be stressed from the shipping process, but purchasing from a breeder ensures that the fish are shipped directly to you with no stops in between.

While the tropical fish you purchase online may be healthier than those you would purchase in-store, they are also likely to be more expensive. In addition to paying for your fish, the breeder will also charge you a fee for priority shipping. Some breeders and retailers adjust the price of their fish or offer flat-rate shipping fees to their customers to make it more affordable. Most breeders also offer their customers free replacement fish if the ones they receive in the mail die during the shipping process. Also, the breeders and other online sources usually make every effort to ship the healthiest fish possible so that the fish have a better chance of surviving the shipping process.

What to Look For When You Buy

The last thing you want to do is spend your hard-earned cash on a selection of beautiful tropical fish just to have them die within a few days of introducing them into your home aquarium. While keeping the water quality in your home aquarium high will greatly increase the chance of survival for your fish, there is something you can do before you even bring them home. Maintaining a healthy aquarium starts with purchasing healthy fish.

When you arrive at the pet store, spend a few minutes looking around at all of the fish tanks. Are they clean or are the walls slick with algae and the water levels too low? Do the tanks look well-stocked (or worse yet, overstocked) or is the selection very limited? Check to see whether there are dead fish lying at the bottom of the tank or stuck to the filters. If there are, the rest of the fish in the tank may not be far behind. Dead fish in multiple tanks may be a sign of negligence on the part of the staff, poor water quality or inferior stock. Whatever the reason may be, it is best to avoid purchasing fish from a store that has these problems.

There are several things to look for when buying fish from a pet store. Select fish that are lively and active – they shouldn’t be floating at the surface or lolling about on the bottom of the tank. If possible, visit the store while the fish are being fed to see which fish have a healthy appetite. Look for fish with intact fins, no swelling or redness around the gills and clear eyes. If there are any growths, discolored patches or signs of bloating do not purchase the fish.

Other Tips For Buying Tropical Fish

Stocking your home aquarium can be fun, but it is not a process you should take lightly. In addition to purchasing your fish from a reputable dealer and selecting fish that are healthy, you need to be sure that the fish you are bringing home are compatible with one another. Certain species of fish are more aggressive than others and if you try to fill your tank with aggressive fish it may only be a matter of time before you see trouble. In order to ensure that your fish are happy and healthy, brush up on the basics of tropical fish compatibility before you buy. Check out our “Fish Photos” section for more freshwater tropical fish information.

How To Determine If The Aquarium Hobby Is Right For You

Thinking about getting an aquarium? It’s a very fun and exciting hobby, but there’s more to it than you may think. Learn what’s involved in owning an aquarium and whether this hobby is right for you or not.

Perhaps you had a goldfish when you were younger – a prize from the county fair that you brought home and kept in a bowl for a few weeks until it died. If this is the only experience you have with aquarium fish then there are a few things you should learn before making the decision to enter this hobby. Maintaining a freshwater aquarium can be as complex or as simple a project as you want it to be depending on the size of your tank and the type of fish you choose. These are not the only choices you have to make, however, so do some research to learn just what goes into being an aquarium hobbyist in order to determine whether it is the right hobby for you.

Time Involved – Before You Buy

The largest block of time you will have to devote to your new hobby as an aquarium owner is at the beginning. Not only should you perform some basic research to determine what kind of fish you want to raise and how to customize your tank to suit their needs, but you also need to select and set up your tank. You could spend hours doing research planning the perfect tank for your fish, or you could simply ask the sales associate at your local pet store for a recommendation of easy starter fish. Selecting a fish tank is generally a matter of preference when it comes to shape, but the size should be determined by the type of fish you intend to raise.

In addition to researching the species of fish you want to keep, and their environmental requirements, it is also wise to carefully consider the equipment you will purchase to keep your aquarium running. There are countless varieties and brands of aquarium filters on the market and while you could simply pick the one that is on sale when you visit the pet store, reading reviews and product descriptions is a better way to go. Again, when selecting the equipment for your tank you can spend as much or as little time as you want researching before you buy.

Setting Up the Tank

Setting up your new aquarium is a process that can take several hours. You will need to rinse out the tank as well as the substrate and all of the tank decorations you plan to use. Once you have done so you will also need to fill the tank with water – the timeframe for this process will vary depending on the size of your tank. After filling and decorating your tank the equipment must be installed and, in some cases, programmed. If you set everything up correctly at the start, you should not have to spend a great deal of time maintaining and cleaning your tank on a regular basis. However, it must be understood that all aquariums will require regular upkeep to ensure the health and survivability of the fish. How much time necessary for this will depend to some degree on proper set-up in the beginning.

Once your tank has been set up, and after it has cycled properly, you can add your fish. From this point on, most freshwater aquariums require relatively little maintenance. Weekly 10 – 20% water changes and simple water tests generally add up to less than an hour of your time every week. Once a month or so you may need to perform a larger water change in addition to changing your filter media which could take more than an hour if you have a very large tank. You will need to feed your fish daily, but it shouldn’t take more than five minutes out of your day.

The Cost of a New Aquarium

In the same way you have control over how much time you put into your new hobby as an aquarium owner, you can also have some control over the cost. One of the easiest ways to save money when starting out in this hobby is to purchase an aquarium kit that includes the tank, a filter, a heater and perhaps some extras like a hood with a built-in light fixture. Many aquarium kits also offer substrate and a few tank decorations so the hobbyist can get started right away. Aquarium kits vary in price according to the size of the tank and the additional items included. 10 gallon starter kits usually cost between $100 and $150 and 5 gallon kits can usually be purchased for under $50. Tanks this small are only recommended for a limited number of small fish, however, or for fish which need to be kept in isolation, such as betta fish.

Many novice aquarium hobbyists mistakenly believe that the larger the tank, the more maintenance will be required. This is not true and, in fact, a twenty- to thirty-gallon tank is the size recommended for beginners in this hobby. A starter kit with a tank this size may range in price from $150 to $250. If you choose to purchase your aquarium components separately, you could spend $200 on a tank alone, not to mention the cost of equipment. Aquarium filters run from $20 to over $100 depending on the size and the brand. In addition to a filter, your tank will need an aquarium heater and lighting. This equipment could cost an additional $100. How much you spend on tank decorations is up to you. The cost of substrate will vary according to the type you select and how much you need. Live plants will be more expensive than plastic and can require special substrate or tank conditions in order to thrive.

Maintenance Costs

In addition to the cost of setting up your aquarium, you will also need to purchase your fish. When you are just starting out it is wise to select hardy community fish like swordtails, tetras and danios. These fish generally cost less than $5 each, making them some of the most affordable fish as well as some of the easiest to keep. As you gain experience in the hobby you may graduate to more difficult species like cichlids. These fish can grow rather large and generally cost between $10 and $30 each. Larger fish are generally more expensive than smaller ones, but they also tend to live longer which means you will not have to purchase replacements quite so often.

Once you have set up and stocked your tank the cost of routine maintenance is relatively low. You will need to purchase fish food and water treatment supplies like de-chlorinating solutions, but these items generally cost under $10 and last for quite some time. The greatest maintenance cost you will encounter will be when replacing your filter media. On average, you will need to replace the filter media in your filter to keep your tank running clean and clear. You will also need to keep a supply of test strips to monitor the aquarium water parameters in your tank on a weekly basis, or more often, if you choose.

Size Matters – Choosing The Right Tank Size

While space, experience, fish and maintenance are the main factors you should take into consideration when selecting a fish tank, there are other things that may influence your decision.

Choosing the proper tank size for your aquarium will prevent frustration down the road. Learn the factors involved that could influence your decision when choosing the right size aquarium.

If you are new to the aquarium hobby, you may be tempted to think that when it comes to deciding on tank size, a 5 gallon tank is easier to maintain than a 30 gallon tank. This assumption is wrong and it is one that many novice aquarists make when they start out. It is not uncommon for a beginning aquarist to choose a 10 gallon tank as their starter tank because they feel like they should ease into the hobby when, in fact, a 30 gallon tank is just as easy (or perhaps easier) to maintain. Do not make a decision about which tank you will buy based on how “easy” you think it will be to maintain. When it comes to selecting the right size aquarium, there are a variety of factors to consider and you should not rush your decision.

Available Space

One of the most obvious factors that should be considered before purchasing an aquarium is the amount of available space you have in your home. If you live in a studio apartment it may not be practical for you to keep a 50 gallon tank, for example. In addition to the actual space you have available, the right location for your tank will be in a relatively low-traffic area where people and objects will be unlikely to bump into it and knock it over. The space you choose for your tank should also be easily accessible to make maintenance easier. An aquarium may seem like the perfect way to fill that empty nook in your home but you may regret the decision to put your fish tank there the first time you have to clean it.

Experience

While it is true that larger tanks are easier to maintain than smaller tanks, that is not to say that all novice aquarists should go out and buy a 75 gallon aquarium. Maintaining a tank of this size could require more than one filter or even a sump system that may be more of a challenge than a novice aquarist is willing to take on. If you have several years of experience in the aquarium hobby and are looking to move to the next level or plan to start keeping bigger fish, a large tank may be the right choice for you. For the average beginner in this hobby, however, a tank size around 25 to 30 gallons is ideal. A tank this size is not so large that the size becomes a challenge and it is just large enough that the water volume provides a buffer against the mistakes that a novice is likely to make in regards to the water parameters. In a small tank, a drop in pH or an increase in ammonia could have devastating consequences but these dangers decrease in severity with higher water volumes.

Type of Fish

Another obvious factor in determining which size fish tank is right for you is the type and number of fish you intend to keep. It is often recommended that novice aquarists stock their tank using the principle of one inch of fish per gallon of water. However, this is a very general rule at best and can be misleading if taken literally. If you plan to follow this rule, take the adult size of your fish into consideration rather than the size they are when you purchase them. Also, you must realize that certain species of fish require more room than other species, even though they may be of similar size. Smaller community fish can generally be kept in tanks 30 gallons or less in capacity, but some fish like Oscars and Cichlids, require at least 50 gallons. Before you purchase a tank, research the type of fish you want to keep to see what tank size they prefer. When researching, keep in mind that some fish have preferences not only for tank size but also for tank shape. Species with tall fins like Angelfish, for example, may prefer tanks that are taller than they are wide.

Tank Maintenance

Maintenance time for most aquariums can be reduced if the aquarium is set up properly, so this should not be a large concern when considering what size tank to get. A properly sized filter will remove most of the waste and toxins from your tank water and you will need to replace the filter media once a month regardless what size tank you have. Performing weekly 10 – 20% water changes is recommended in order to keep the water quality in your tank high. If you have a large tank, this process could take longer than it might in a smaller tank. However, larger water volumes will dilute toxins more than a smaller volume so spikes in pH and changes in water chemistry are less likely to become deadly in larger tanks. As long as you allow your tank to cycle properly before stocking it with fish and you keep your filter running and maintained, you should not have to spend much time cleaning algae off the glass or tank decorations. Again, the size of your tank should not significantly affect the growth rate of algae.

Other Considerations

While space, experience, fish and maintenance are the main factors you should take into consideration when selecting a fish tank, there are other things that may influence your decision. As you move from smaller to larger tanks, you will notice a considerable increase in price. If you want a sizeable tank but do not have a lot of money to spend, consider purchasing an aquarium starter kit that includes some of the equipment and tank decorations in order to save money. It is also a good idea to think ahead when selecting your tank. If you are a beginner to this hobby but want to give yourself room for growth, select a tank slightly larger than the average starter tank. For example, if you are starting out with small community fish like Guppies and Swordtails, but hope to move on to Gouramis in the future, select a tank size in the 30 gallon range rather than a 20 gallon.

The Nitrogen Cycle – The Secret to Starting Your Aquarium Off Right

Establishing the aquarium nitrogen cycle is vital to a successful aquarium. Learn how to get the nitrogen cycle started easily in your new aquarium.

When setting up their first tank, many novice aquarium hobbyists overlook the importance of the nitrogen cycle and the role it plays in having a successful aquarium. Because of this oversight, novice aquarists may experience something called “new tank syndrome.” New tank syndrome occurs when an aquarium has not been cycled properly and it can lead to deteriorating water quality and the death of your fish. Symptoms of new tank syndrome may include cloudy or discolored water as a result of an algae bloom; excessive levels of ammonia and/or nitrite; and sick or dead fish. All of these symptoms can be avoided by taking the time to start the nitrogen cycle in your tank before you add any fish.

What is the Nitrogen Cycle?

The nitrogen cycle, also referred to as the nitrification process or start-up cycle, is a biological process necessary to maintain the health of your aquarium. During this cycle, beneficial bacteria multiply and grow in your tank, establishing a colony that helps to remove excess ammonia from tank water. This process can take anywhere from two weeks to two months, depending on water chemistry and the size of your tank. If you attempt to rush this process or introduce fish into your tank before it has cycled completely, there could be serious consequences for your fish. At the very least your tank may experience an algae bloom and, at the worst, your fish may become sick and die.

What Happens During the Nitrogen Cycle?

In the most basic terms, the nitrogen cycle simply involves the conversion of toxic ammonia into a less harmful substance called nitrate, facilitated by beneficial bacteria. Like all organisms, your fish produce waste which accumulates along the bottom of your tank. In time this waste, along with uneaten fish food and decomposing plant matter, will break down into either ionized ammonium (NH4) or un-ionized ammonia (NH3) depending on the pH of the water in your tank.

Ammonium is relatively harmless, but ammonia is toxic to fish and even a small amount can poison your tank inhabitants. If the ammonia level in your tank becomes excessive your fish may stop eating and become lethargic, lying at the bottom of your tank or gasping for air at the surface. Other symptoms of ammonia poisoning include red streaks on the fins, body and gills. These external symptoms may be accompanied by internal damage which can lead to hemorrhaging and death.

The pH level in your tank will determine whether waste products break down into ammonium or ammonia. PH levels under 7 generally result in ammonium production while levels above 7 result in the production of ammonia. Once ammonia has been produced, beneficial bacteria called nitrosomonas will begin to oxidize it, thus safely eliminating it from the tank. The main byproducts of this process are nitrites, substances which are still toxic to fish. Another type of nitrifying bacteria, called nitrobacter, then convert the toxic nitrites into nitrates which are not harmful to your fish in small doses. Nitrate levels can be effectively controlled through routine water changes.

How to Cycle Your Tank

In order to start the nitrogen cycle in your tank you need to build up a colony of beneficial bacteria by providing ammonia on which the bacteria can feed. You can increase the ammonia level in your tank by dropping a small amount of flake food into the tank every twelve hours. A quicker option is to add five drops of pure ammonia per ten gallons of tank water once a day. If you have a second aquarium already set up, using some gravel or filter media from that tank is the quickest and easiest way to jumpstart the nitrogen cycle in your new tank. Since a colony of beneficial bacteria has already been established in your existing tank, transferring some of these bacteria to your new tank will speed up the process. If you choose this option, continue to “feed” the tank daily with a small amount of flake food.

While immediately introducing fish into your newly-filled tank is generally not a good idea, there is a way to start the nitrogen cycle using fish. Adding one or two fish to your tank will start the process of waste production, which will then lead to ammonia production and, thus, the start of the nitrogen cycle. Experienced aquarium hobbyists generally do not recommend this option because many species of fish will be unable to tolerate high levels of ammonia. If you choose to try this method, use a hardy fish like the zebra danio. Goldfish are also a good choice since they naturally produce higher levels of ammonia.

Regardless of what method you choose to start the nitrogen cycle in your tank, it is important for you to monitor the process using an aquarium water test kit. At first you should see the ammonia level in your tank rising as a result of the breakdown of waste products. Eventually, your test kit will begin to detect nitrites and then nitrates as the bacteria in your tank multiply. If you feel the process is taking too long, try increasing the temperature in your tank to 80° Fahrenheit. Once the water in your tank exhibits nitrate readings, perform a 30% water change to complete the process. Add one or two fish at first and give your tank a few weeks to settle and get used to the increased biological load. Over time you can add more fish to your tank but do not rush the process or you may experience an algae bloom.

Tips for Keeping Your Aquarium Clean and Healthy

One of the simplest things you can to do keep your tank clean and healthy is to avoid over-feeding your fish. Rather than feeding your fish a large amount of food at one time, try feeding them small portions several times a day. If you only feed your fish as much as they can consume in three to five minutes, less uneaten fish food will sink to the bottom of your tank and less ammonia will be produced.

Establishing a colony of beneficial bacteria is not only essential in starting the nitrogen process in your tank, it is also important in keeping your tank clean and healthy. Avoid changing more than 50% of the water in your tank at one time and simply change your filter media rather than completely cleaning the filter. Replacing too much water and cleaning your filter completely may decimate the beneficial bacteria in your tank which could hinder the nitrogen cycle and lead to a spike in ammonia levels.

The Top 13 Mistakes Beginner Aquarium Hobbyists Make

This is probably the biggest mistake beginners make. And, it is somewhat understandable. The excitement of having an aquarium full of colorful fish has kicked in and the urge to…

If you’re new to the aquarium hobby there are certain mistakes you’ll want to avoid. Be diligent to avoid these mistakes and you’ll save yourself hours of frustration and be well on your way to the perfect aquarium!

As a new aquarium hobbyist, there are a variety of mistakes that can easily be made when setting up and maintaining your first aquarium. Usually, the first place most people look for information is at the local fish store because, when the initial thought of having an aquarium takes hold, the natural thing to do is to “go look at some fish”. This can be a hit or miss proposition, depending on which employee you talk to. Just like any industry, there are great, knowledgeable employees and there are employees who aren’t so knowledgeable in the local fish stores. For those of you reading this, follow the advice given below and you’ll save yourself from an endless aquarium nightmare!

1. No Patience:

This is probably the biggest mistake beginners make. And, it is somewhat understandable. The excitement of having an aquarium full of colorful fish has kicked in and the urge to “get it done right now” is hard to resist. However, you must understand that you’re setting up a thriving ecological system in a tank and this requires the proper foundation to be successful. Don’t concentrate on the fish just yet. Patience is critical. Following this rule will eliminate hours of headaches and frustration.

2. Not Understanding The Nitrogen Cycle:

The nitrogen cycle is a natural occurrence in nature. It occurs on land and in the water. Being a successful aquarist requires an understanding of the nitrogen cycle and its various stages. The good news is you don’t have to have a PhD in microbiology to accomplish this! A basic understanding will suffice. For now, just understand that certain stages of the nitrogen cycle can be very toxic to fish eventually killing them if left unchecked.

3. Starting With An Aquarium Too Small:

This is a decision made from having too small of a budget or just plain bad advice. With that being said, it does make good sense to not “go all out” when trying out a new hobby. After all, you may not like it and buying the biggest and best would turn out to be a big waste of money. So, assuming this hobby is right for you, follow this rule. Bigger Is Better. Why? Because, it’s easier to keep stable water parameters with a larger volume of water. A change in pH, ammonia, or nitrites ( and they will change! ) will have a more drastic impact on a smaller volume of water. Therefore, if your budget allows, start with a minimum 25 gallon to 30 gallon tank. An aquarium in the 50 gallon range would be ideal!

4. Not Adding Live Plants:

Adding live plants to a freshwater aquarium is an absolute necessity. And yes, you can have a successful aquarium without live plants. However, live plants provide several benefits. Most importantly, they oxygenate the water which your fish and the “good bacteria” in the aquarium need to survive and thrive. Secondly, since plants are more complex organisms than algae, they utilize the “nutrients” in the water more readily (plants and algae feed upon the same nutrients). Think of plants as the big pig at the table eating all of the food and leaving mere scraps for the algae. A small amount of algae in the aquarium is okay. Help to keep it that way by adding live plants.

5. Under-sizing The Filter:

A properly sized filter should turn the aquarium water over 4 to 5 times per hour. And yes, you’ll get advice that says 2 or 3 times per hour is fine. But, don’t buy an undersized filter to save a few bucks. Efficient mechanical filtration plays a very important role in having a low maintenance aquarium. Remember, a filter slightly larger than needed is just fine. However, a filter slightly smaller than needed is never okay and can lead to a frustrating situation. This hobby is supposed to be fun and enjoyable, not frustrating. Don’t frustrate yourself, start off with a mechanical filter sized correctly from the start!

6. Adding Fish to Soon:

Setting up an aquarium isn’t a matter of buying the tank, filling it with water, and listening to the “kerplunk” of your fish hitting the water as you immediately add them! Believe it or not, this is a pretty common mistake. The nitrogen cycle must be complete and water parameters must be stable before even thinking about adding fish. Don’t be too eager to quickly add fish. Remember to have patience.

7. Adding Too Many Fish At One Time:

After the water parameters have stabilized, it’s now safe to add fish. A good rule of thumb is to add 1 to 3 fish at a time. Remember, once the fish are added, the “bio-load” just increased. There are now sources of waste in the aquarium that weren’t in there previously. Fish poop, fish respiration through their gills, and uneaten food are sources of waste. It is important to give the mechanical and biological filtration time to “catch up” and adjust to these changes. Resist the urge to add all of your fish at one time. Remember to have patience.

8. Overstocking:

Putting too many fish in an aquarium can overload your filtration system and make it very difficult to keep water parameters in check. This can be bad, as high ammonia levels are very toxic to fish. You may have heard to stock 1 inch of fish per gallon of water in the aquarium. This is misleading. How do you think a 20 inch catfish would do in a 20 gallon aquarium? Not too well. A safer bet would be to take 75% of the total gallons and then apply the “1 inch of fish per gallon of water rule” to that figure. So, a 50 gallon aquarium x 75% would equal 37.5 gallons. Then, stay below 37 1/2 inches of fish (based on mature size not the size when you buy them) and you should be fine.

9. Choosing Incompatible Fish:

Certain species of fish do not get along. In the wild, this isn’t a problem because either they don’t originate from the same area or, at the very least, there’s plenty of room for them to avoid each other. This isn’t the case in an enclosed tank. Secondly, some aquarium species are carnivorous. If the other fish in the aquarium are small enough to fit into their mouths, assume that this will happen. And third, not all species of fish require the exact same water parameters. Do your research before buying fish.

10. Overfeeding The Fish:

This is probably the #1 mistake beginners to the aquarium hobby make. Fish may appear to be hungry, but that doesn’t mean they are. Think about it. There really isn’t much else for the fish to do but swim around and eat. Feeding fish once a day is a good schedule to start with. And yes, the label on the fish food container may say two or three times a day. But, stick with once a day. You won’t be starving your fish. Fish can go several days without eating with no ill effects. If ammonia and nitrites are out of whack, withhold food for several days to minimize excess waste until water parameters stabilize. Your fish will be just fine.

11. Not Testing The Water Regularly:

With a newly set up aquarium, testing the water on a regular basis is a must. PH, hardness, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates should be monitored during this phase. Ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates should be checked daily during the start-up cycle. Why? Because, without doing so, you won’t know when it’s safe to add fish. And besides, since you probably haven’t done this before, the practice of testing and interpreting the results will be good for you.

12. Not Changing The Water Often Enough:

Regular water changes are important to maintaining a healthy aquarium. There are different opinions as to how often and how much. Assuming that your aquarium is not severely overstocked, you are not overfeeding, and filtration is sized and working correctly, a 10 – 20% water change once a week should be fine. Regular water changes help remove wastes that build up in the aquarium and is an important task in your maintenance schedule.

13. No Maintenance Schedule:

Having an aquarium full of fish is not a “set it and forget it” hobby. It requires regular maintenance. Depending on the size of your aquarium, plan on spending 1 to 3 hours a week on maintenance. This would include changing the water, testing the water, feeding the fish, cleaning the filter, and handling any problems that may arise. If this time requirement doesn’t fit into your schedule, you should probably consider another hobby or look into having an aquarium maintenance service handle this for you.

Remember, every aquarium is different. There is no “one size fits all” strategy. A 10 gallon aquarium will take much less time to maintain than a 50 gallon aquarium. So keep this in mind when considering the time investment for your aquarium set up. Be diligent to avoid these mistakes and you’ll save yourself from hours of frustration and be well on your way to the perfect aquarium!